THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
My original plan to visit this award-winning boutique hotel in the west of Scotland was thwarted by loch-down. Finally, 18 months later, I got to make the trip in April.
The drive from Glasgow takes about 3 hours. We took the high road up and the low road back. Both took us along Loch Lomond! It's a stunning drive either way with plenty of opportunities to stop and gawk. We made a side trip to The Hill House, the masterpiece by Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Well worth a visit.
Port Appin is a tiny village between Oban and Fort William on Loch Linnhe. Talk about bonny banks! The view of the loch, the Isle of Lismore and the Morvern Mountains is absolutely stunning and Airds is perfectly situated to take every advantage of it.
The former 18th century ferry inn is done up in contemporary country house style. There is no ostentation at all (although it has won a 'Most Romantic Hotel in Scotland' award), just exceptional quality with an emphasis on comfort. From the moment we walked in, the open fireplace welcomed us as if we were returning home. Small seating areas are clustered together in the 2 lounges, each more inviting than the other. It was tempting to just curl up with a good book. We had no time for that but we did manage to curl up with a large gin. Twice!
The staff, headed by Robert McKay, is superlative. Robert has an easy charm, quiet confidence and an encyclopaedic knowledge of the area. He seems to have imparted all these qualities to every member of his team. Everyone who looked after us was well spoken, affable and competent. We seemed to be offered exactly what we wanted before we had to ask. That's an art!
My superior double was a decent size and very well appointed, both in the bedroom and the spacious bath. There were so many lovely, personal touches. Sweets, booze, fruit, robe, slippers …the lot. The bed was superb and again, that view! It was very comfortable and cleanliness was top. The room was made up during breakfast and curtains drawn during dinner. I could get used to such a life!
One of the main reasons to stay at Airds is the food of Head Chef Calum Innes. We spent a delightful 30 minutes chatting with him. He too is down to earth and easy to talk with. Born on the island of Benbecula in the Outer Hebrides, he knows this part of the world and the bounty it has to offer. His philosophy of food is fresh, locally sourced ingredients served “simply”. Classic in style, his innovations make each dish uniquely his own. He puts his heart on the plate and it is a joy to eat.
The dining room has the best views in the hotel. Windows stretching its length and rattan chairs give it the feel of a luxurious veranda. The ever-changing light on the loch and mountains offers a breath-taking backdrop to the dining experience. We were mesmerized.
On the first evening we sampled Calum's seafood tasting menu. From this, it is easy to understand why he has kept the 3 Rosettes the hotel has held for over 30 years! 8 flawless courses. A Champagne and lime granita added a shock of cold, bittersweet to the brine of a local oyster. Razor clam with tiny diced vegetables and burnt lemon was delicate and buttery. Exquisite scallops from Mull and langoustine from Oban continued like a great crescendo to what was probably the best monkfish I've ever had. Pan seared in butter, it was tender with just a touch of bite and bursting with juice. Pommes mousseline, spinach and a mussel and saffron velouté added just the right balance of flavours. An excellent selection of cheeses followed with a pre-dessert and a spectacular apple crumble soufflé. As if by magic, hot, marshmallow air tasted of apple and spice. A Drambuie anglaise added a rich hit of sweet booze.
Paired wines at £47.50 per person were good, if not quite a match for the food. For the price, there are better bets on the wine list. On our second night, we enjoyed a bottle of 2018 Smoking Loon Pinot Noir from California (£60).
From the à la carte menu, tian of Isle of Mull crab is an absolute must. The sweet, fresh white crab is mixed with salt baked kohlrabi and served with a fennel and lettuce gazpacho. Just beautiful food. A velouté of garden peas and ham hock, with spring veg, wild garlic pesto and poached egg came a close second. I liked the chunky texture of the soup and the perfectly runny egg added a touch of luxury.
Impeccably cooked Canon of Argyll lamb with a gorgeous jus Parisienne and stone bass with scallop tortellini, butter sauce and local caviar were both top class dishes.
Only an overly sweet rhubarb and vanilla panna cotta seemed to lose the essence of the main ingredient. Lemon curd soufflé was another showstopper. Just air. Not a calorie in sight!
Breakfast is another triumph with everything from brûléed porridge to smoked salmon and caviar. The Scottish fry up shouldn't be missed! Eggs, bacon, sausage, tomato, mushroom, potato scone, blood sausage and haggis! This on top of croissants, toast, fresh juice… We were so fortified for the day, we had no need of lunch. Sadly! The lunch menu at Airds features a seafood platter that had me wishing for an extra stomach. If a stay is not on your itinerary, a stop for lunch would be a fantastic way to sample Chef Innes's food at great value.
After breakfast, there is no shortage of things to do. Hiking, horse-riding, watersports and cycling offer endless opportunities, and for history fans there are many local castles to visit, and the area's famous for the notorious Appin Murder, in 1752, which inspired Robert Louis Stevenson's novel, Kidnapped.
We took the 10 minute boat ride to the isle of Lismore for a 2 hour stroll. There's nothing like boats, water and islands for a truly holiday feel and we were absolutely blessed with sunshine. Perhaps the postponement was a stroke of loch!
Airds Hotel & Restaurant (www.airds-hotel.com) in Port Appin near Oban on the West Coast of Scotland is accessible by air, train and road. Airds offers double rooms from £395 per room per night based on 2 people sharing half board (valid to the end of October).
A 2 night break in May from £790 based on 2 sharing a double room on a half board basis.
The June Jubilee Mini Break from £1225 for 3 nights based on 2 sharing a double room on a half board basis. The price includes Head Chef Calum Innes' à la carte menu on the 1st evening, his sensational 7-course seafood tasting menu on the 2nd evening and an irresistible Scottish Seafood Sharing Platter - locally sourced west coast ingredients - for 2 on the 3rd evening.
One week in Airds' charming 2-bedroom cottage (sleeps up to 6 using the sofa bed in the living room) is from £1350 per week. Arrivals Saturday (priority booking facility for the restaurant is offered). Price is on a self-catered basis and valid to the end of October.
