THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
Kingly Court, Ground Floor, Carnaby, London W1B 5PW
The Basque Country is number 2 on my culinary bucket list, just after Japan. I’ve been dying to go for decades but just haven’t managed a trip. Happily, the mountain came to Mohammed!
Kingly Court is one of London’s hidden gems. You could easily pass by the narrow passage off Carnaby Street and miss the courtyard with 3 floors of restaurants. Foodie paradise! ALTA is certainly a top choice. The combination of fine British ingredients coupled with the influences of Northern Spain and the wood-fired expertise of Chef Robbie Jameson is hard to beat.
The restaurant occupies 2 floors. Upstairs is for more formal dining. The rustic chic of the ground level offers a bar, open flame kitchen and outside seating. Clearly a bit more posh, it pays homage to the Basque pintxos bars where, traditionally, patrons would throw their napkins on the floor when they finished. Good luck with that in Soho!
We took advantage of London’s Indian summer and sat outside at a high-top communal table, though we didn’t commune with anyone. Except our lovely servers. All of them were excellent; didn’t miss a trick. The menu is divided into 6 sections. For 2 people, we were advised to order one dish from each. We were only too happy to oblige, starting with a fine glass of garnacha. A ’22 Viticola Mentridana “El Mentridano” (£14) was clean and elegant. Light and fresh with oak and soft tannins.
A beautifully soft bun with a filling of sobrasada, Spain’s less fiery answer to ‘nduja, was topped with goat’s cheese and a glistening gel of lightly smoked honey. The gel made a stunning presentation but its cold texture lost the nuance and gooey warmth of honey.
Tuna ceviche (£16) was a fabulous blend of lime and red onion with a crisp, light tapioca cracker topped with sesame seed. Iberico and smoked cheddar croquettes (£9) were golden brown, rich, creamy and packed with savory flavor.
A glass of 2017 Remelluri Rioja Reserva (£19) was full-bodied with oak, plum and spice. A fruit forward, organic Rioja.
The pintxos arrived and I kept my napkin firmly in my lap! A skewer of A4 wagyu (£15 ea.) was perfectly grilled, served in a marrow bone and glazed with Marmite, honey and espelette, the smoky red pepper from the French Basque. A sweet, savory, sticky treat.
Highland lobster (£42) was a standout. Generous chunks on top of rice, cooked in a rich lobster stock with saffron and topped with slivers of pink grapefruit. Full of gorgeous lobster flavor.
On the side, Chef Jameson’s version of roasted corn (£12). An espuma of creamy corn air with roasted corn, chorizo, chili oil and a coriander crumb. Not the flavor. punch it sounds, but delicately nuanced, highlighting the sweet corn.
Dessert was sensational. Chocolate, bread and olive oil (£12) combined sourdough, chocolate mousse and a savory, glossy, scorched Italian meringue. I bet they don’t have THAT in San Sebastian!
