THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
2 St Giles Square, London WC2H 8AP
I'm not a fan of pizza. I recognise that it's very popular and has spread across the globe from its birthplace in Naples. And of course not all pizzas are the same. But to me it means floppy slices of dough and messy toppings that are difficult to eat. I probably have pizza no more than two or three times a year – either at the behest of friends or because other options are unavailable.
But the chance to review the newly opened Berberè Pizzeria just off Tottenham Court Road persuaded me to put my prejudices on hold and take a more open-minded approach to this ubiquitous and much-loved dish. I also wanted to check out a venue which offers very modestly priced meals in the heart of London.
Founded in 2010, by Calabrian brothers Matteo and Salvatore Aloe, Berberè is a small chain of pizzerias known for their pizza crust made daily from live sourdough using organic flour. The menu is small with the spotlight on a limited range of pizzas – from the simple Marinara to more complex combinations and including such classics as Diavolo Piccante and Quattro Formaggi.
The restaurant is functional rather than elegant and the staff are young, friendly and cheerful. Service is speedy. The tables are too close together for my taste and the music is only just the right side of intrusive. But see below...
We started with olives and potato crisps with aioli (£3 each) followed by a Norma – baked aubergines, basil and walnut pesto, tomato, mozzarella and smoked ricotta (£12.50) and a Burrata & 'Nduja – spicy Calabrian sausage, burrata, tomato, mozzarella, semi dried tomatoes and basil (£13.00). The starters were standard issue and unremarkable. But the pizzas were a far cry from assembly line slabs of soggy carbohydrate smothered in tomato and cheese. The sourdough crust was delicious – a soft pillow with a crispy coating. And apart from a slight aubergine deficit, the toppings were generous. The food was simple but tasty.
The wine list is short so we were able to sample each of the three organic reds on offer. Prices for a 175ml glass are from £6.60 to £8.30. Each is drinkable but little beyond that. I think beer would be a better choice.
The pizzas themselves are substantial and we weren't able to finish the large, fluffy, creamy, coffee sponge and chocolate tiramisu (£6.50). But I wanted to!
This is a place for people with hearty appetites and limited budgets. It has no pretensions to fine dining, but offers great value for money in the heart of the West End. I'm not a complete pizza convert, but would be happy to return.
Back to the tables! It was impossible to ignore the group of young men having a lively conversation in Portuguese next to us. But the answer was simple. With almost no encouragement they welcomed us in and shifted into English. So our meal ended with a delightful conversation with four new friends. I expect this happens often.