THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
7-8 Market Place, London, W1W 8AG
www.carmelrestaurant.co.uk/fitzrovia
After opening a mere two weeks ago, the place was absolutely heaving! I expect it will remain so for a good long while.
After their success in Queen's Park, Josh Katz and Mattia Bianchi have brought the wonders of the eastern Mediterranean to central London. Chef Katz created the menu in collaboration with Executive Chef Jeremy Borrow and it's a doozy. Their food is full of innovation, packed with flavor and just downright sexy. It's all meant for sharing which in my case means, "look over there!!!"
The quasi-industrial space has been warmed up beautifully, both by the open kitchen, dark wood, upholstered banquettes and candlelight. The room is cleverly divided into intimate spaces with "the green room" at the far end. Higher ceilings with skylights and lots of plants create a cosy jungle.
A little waiting time was the only exception to very good service. This will surely be ironed out once the staff gets used to the crowds they likely didn't expect so soon after opening.
Mattia Bianchi is the man behind the beverages and his cocktails are excellent. A Shuk (£13) blended mescal, pineapple, coriander and chili in lovely boozy balance. Glory Glory (£14) is his take on an Old Fashioned, sweetened with dried fig and walnut. New Fashioned?
Bread at Carmel is a must and there is much to choose from. Za'atar flatbread (£7), nearly the size of a baguette is mind bogglingly good. Brushed with olive oil and lovely spice, with tahini and fermented chili. Heavenly. Sourdough flatbread with asparagus and crab (£15) was a "breadier" version with chili, preserved lemon and crème fraîche. My guest and I were at odds over which was better.
Scallop crudo (£16) showed the kitchen's skill at balance. The fine tatar comes with a tomato, chili and peach gazpacho that is just superb. Where was that bread when we needed it? The peach added just a touch of sweetness and the heat of chili was pitch perfect.
Grilled 'monster' prawn (£26) might indeed have come from Loch Ness! Beautifully charred but still translucent, it came with soft pillows of gnocchi made with mizithra, a soft Greek cheese similar to ricotta. A rich beurre blanc, chives and shellfish oil completed the dish. Delicious as it was, pasta and prawn seemed to compete with each other rather than merging happily into one dish.
Hispi cabbage (£11.50) grilled to perfection and served with creamy labneh, ras el hanout oil and roasted macadamias was a standout. The oil, made with a spice mix from North Africa, just rocked.
A glass of '21 Natali, Natalino Del Prete Primitivo for £9 was full of fruit, soft tannins and tobacco.
Panna cotta (£9) had the famed wobble, lots of cinnamon and spiced quince. A dark, rich chocolate tart (£9) was beautifully elevated with a wallop of Turkish coffee glaze. Wow!
Hispi cabbage and flatbread for under 20 quid is amazing value for money. I'll be back for seconds!
