THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
5-6 Down Street, London W1J 7AQ
This particular pirate certainly isn't robbing anyone. Perhaps it's named for the unauthorized use of tapas, an act of piracy they've been getting away with for over 31 years.
When I was working in Barcelona, I went to a different tapas bar every day for lunch. It was a heavenly way to eat. Tripe was a bit hard to stomach but otherwise… I enjoyed everything, whether I recognized it or not. El Pirata brought me right back to those days. Located in Mayfair, it's a bit more posh, but the food is very authentic and the prices are moderate.
There is upstairs, downstairs and al fresco dining and all were packed. The ground level is decked out in posters from exhibitions of Picasso and Miró. We sat next to a rendition of Sylvette, bringing me back to the wonderful sculpture of Picasso's muse outside New York University. This was turning out to be a flashback feast!
31 years is a long time and service runs like a well-oiled machine. Everything happens before you even notice and still with charm. It's very impressive. No sooner had we ordered, drinks and bread appeared on the table. A refreshing jungle mint mocktail (£7.50) for my Brazilian and a glass of Acón Roble Ribera del Duero Temperanillo (£11) para mí. Full and fruity with oak and smooth tannins. Very easy to drink.
The great thing about tapas is you can have a light meal or eat like a pig. We ate like pigs! Nearly everything needed a hit of salt, but otherwise, everything was fresh, tasty and full of flavor. Sourdough with extra virgin olive oil was good quality on both counts and came in handy throughout the meal for cleaning our plates! Iberian ham croquettes (£9.30) were crisp outside, soft in the middle and bursting with the flavor. of ham.
A tapas feast wouldn't be complete without gambas al ajillo (£9.70)! Beautifully cooked shrimp with garlic and chilli were as good as it gets and reason number one why ordering bread is a must! Marinated cod cheeks (£12.75) were very simple, marinated in lemon, skewered and grilled. A good version of poor man's scallops.
Grilled artichokes with aioli (£9.25) and asparagus with tomato sauce and manchego (£11.95) were both elegant, though 4 spears were just this side of meager.
Sweet potato salad (£10.50) was the special of the day. Half a roasted potato with greens, balsamic dressing and an enormous slice of quality chevre was special indeed.
Chicken in white wine with garlic, chili and olive oil was reason number two for bread gratitude. We certainly didn't encounter any vampires on the way home.
A Spanish take on pain perdue (£10) gave the French a run for their money. Beautifully caramelized and soft, not soggy, I've rarely had better. A raspberry sorbet (£10) was a full on flavor punch.
There's only one thing to say to this pirate. Ahoy matey!!!
