THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
When Japanese began migrating to Peru at the turn of the last century, they created a culinary match made in heaven. Nakanojo brings this fusion into the 21st century with a wonderful mix of raw and marinated fish, street food and Japanese classics.
10 minutes from Sloane Square on the King's Road, the trip offers one of London's nicest urban walks. Inside is full of color from plants and a stunning mural that adds a touch of the exotic. Our comfy banquette gave us full view of the bright and airy room. We were greeted warmly by Giles who looked after us perfectly throughout the evening and started us off with hot sake.
It's considered a bit barbarian to drink sake hot these days but after 50 years, it's still the way I like it. It soothes and calms like a hot bath. We sampled a Dewasanan Daiginjo and a Dewazakura Oka Ginjo (£17 for a small carafe). Both were full of flavor and lovely notes of liquorice, the first with more body and nuance.
Nikkei (Japanese emigrants) street food brings Mexico into the mix. Wagyu carne asada tacos (£18 for 2) with avocado, cabbage, chipotle and coriander were punchy and delicious. The meat was tender and succulent, full of flavor from the asada marinade. The super tasty tortillas were too dry and crumbled apart.
Tuna tataki (£15) is a standout. The lightly seared fish in yuzu, truffle soy, sesame, spicy garlic ponzu and red mustard cress was so good, I had to drink the sauce from the serving dish!
There is a tremendous amount of sushi and sashimi on the menu. The Peruvian Connection (£52) seemed to offer the best of the fusion elements and the four inside out rolls of eight pieces each was enough for two of us to eat our fill. It's a beautiful plate of food which Giles served with the ritual it deserved. Ceviche (sea bass, mango salsa, cucumber, avocado, mange tout and ceviche sauce) and piri piri (seared salmon, salsa, cucumber, avocado, mange tout and teriyaki) were the two that best captured the fusion elements, though I would have liked more variety in the ingredients. Tuna taki with Panko shrimp, avocado, chipotle aioli and taki furikake, and Dragon maki with panko shrimp, avocado, chipotle, mayo, teriyaki and sesame were also top quality.
Desserts were brilliantly inventive. Dulce de leche cheesecake (£11) added the sweet caramel to a light, well-executed classic and Apple gyoza (£9 for 3) was inspired. The Japanese dumplings were delicate, crisp as strudel, filled with apple compote and served with vanilla ice cream and a small jug of dulce de leche. Delightful!
Before heading out into the cold, Giles brought us a selection of Japanese whiskey. My well-experienced guest chose a Nikka coffee grain (£16) which was on the sweet side for me. Hibiki (£19) was peaty and full of fire, just the way I like it. Japan and Scotland. Another heavenly match!
