THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
15 Greek Street, London W1D 4PD
I first had the pleasure of reviewing Patara, in South Kensington, in 2014... when I was 22. [Ahem! – ed] I specifically remember a delicious rock lobster in Thai green curry for £23.95. That was then, this is now! For one thing there are now branches in Knightsbridge, Oxford Circus, Wimbledon, and Soho.
Patara is eponymously named for its founder, restaurateur, chef and TV personality, Khun Patara Sila-On. This summer she passed the mantle for the Soho site to her niece, Nam Parama Raiva, leaving her with big shoes to fill. She wears them well. Together with Head Chef Phayom Phimkrua, she's created a menu based on family recipes passed down over the generations. Coupled with a contemporary look, Platapian is a happy mix of classic and cool. Taking center stage is a magnificent shrine, built to honor and appease protective spirits. I'll take two!
Speaking of spirits, the bar boasts a tantalizing selection of Thai inspired cocktails. Still off the sauce, I stuck with a glass of 'This Is Not Another Lovely Malbec', Matias Riccitelli, '23, (£12.50). I couldn't resist the name but it was, in fact, another lovely Malbec. Fruit-forward and jammy with very light tannins. A virgin Patara Passionfruit, lime and Fever-Tree lemonade brought us right to the tropics!
The menu is an interesting mix of the bold and spicy flavors of the south, and the more nuanced dishes of the north. From the aptly named selection of small plates, we started with spicy tuna crudo with lemongrass (£11.50). Here were all the Thai flavors we have come to love and expect. Lime, chilli, fish sauce, palm sugar and lemongrass. Big, bold and delicious. Crispy baby squid with chilli and garlic (£9.50) was delicate and indeed crisp. It cried out for a dip. Bone marrow with spicy, crispy garlic, chilli and crackers (£9.50) sounded so good I had to have it. It was so good but I fear it took a year off my life! Pure fat with a spicy, salty crumb. What's not to love?
Claypots are a specialty of the house, and rightly so. We chose rice with jumbo crabmeat and crispy lard (£29.95). I've rarely seen so much white crab. It was truly impressive. And the rice was exquisite. Beef short ribs in 5 spice paloh and salted egg yolk (£25) was another triumph. Incorporated into the sauce, the yolks add a savory element to the slight sweetness of 5 spice, creating a rich, well-balanced gravy. The meat just fell off the bone.
Southern style roti with banana and Phetchaburi coconut caramel (£6.50) was delightfully savory, though the intriguing coconut caramel failed to deliver. Brûléed bananas were not as exotic as the description implied. The flaky roti was excellent.
Mango sorbet (£3.95) was like a frozen, creamy version of the fruit itself. Pure mango.
Service was both competent and friendly, with the gracious quality I've come to associate with Thai hospitality.
As for the lobster? Á la pad Thai, it'll run you £39. The lobster tail claypot, £48. I blame it on the tariffs!
