THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
National Portrait Gallery, St Martin’s Place, London WC2H 0HE
A meal at the Portrait restaurant is a bit special. It’s a pleasant spot, calmly decorated in sandy creams and browns with plenty of greenery. But it’s the view that’s really special. You can look into the kitchen if you wish, but sitting above the National Portrait Gallery and overlooking Trafalgar Square, you are almost eye-to-eye with Admiral Nelson and can also take in Big Ben, the London Eye and St Martin in the Fields from one of the city’s best vantage points.
Acclaimed Executive Chef and owner, Richard Corrigan, brings an innovative and adventurous approach to seasonal produce. So expect some interesting pairings with an emphasis on the earthy flavors of winter. We began the evening with a chilli pepper margarita with some crispy goat’s cheese-covered olives. Less sharp and more refined that a traditional margarita, this shiny pink drink was an excellent partner to the savory bursts of flavor.
I tucked into the game terrine, quince compote and pickled shallots, a combination that worked very well. Meaty chunks with a sweet jam and sharp, salty leaves, each mouthful a great story. I normally shy away from Jerusalem artichokes, but my companion’s curiosity got the better of her. This difficult child of a vegetable had been tamed, trained and sent to finishing school, to return as a well behaved companion to comté custard flecked with emerald threads of pickled marjoram. It was creamy, earthy, crispy, mysterious and delicious.
Wine is served by the glass and we chose, perhaps conservatively, a Sancerre and a Chablis. No regrets however as both were fresh with citrus fruit and minerality. The Sancerre was the slightly greener and livelier of the two.
We then shared a plate of clam linguine. It was elegant and gentle, with only the mildest of kicks from a sprinkling of chives, and a welcome counterpoint to the strong flavors of the first courses.
I chose the guinea fowl schnitzel with nduja, remoulade and pesto as my main course. A glass of Californian Pinot Noir was just as it should be – medium bodied with red fruits and a hint of forest floor. The guinea fowl was moist but crispy with earthy, sharp and herby notes and altogether delicious. But if my choice was good, my companion’s Dover sole with wild mushrooms and marsh samphire was sensational. Simply prepared but perfectly cooked fish paired with tart greenery and melt in the mouth mushrooms.
By now we were pretty full but decided we had to try the desserts. A pot crème with rhubarb and shortbread and a ginger and quince steamed pudding and custard made the final cut. Both were excellent.
The waiters were friendly, confident and knowledgeable, offering just the right amount of attention. All in all it was a great culinary and visual experience. But it’s not cheap! There is a £39 set lunch and pre-theater menu, but it would be wise to budget around £120 - £150 per head for dinner. That said, it is special.
