THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
After the market crowd has gone, I adore a stroll up Portobello Road. Especially at the “cool” end near Ladbroke Grove. It has just the right mix of vibe and charm. Sova is a brilliant addition to this mix. Slavic retro, with al fresco dining, a weekend DJ spinning vinyl, good food and – the big surprise – a great selection of Eastern European wine. Who knew?
Our waiter also had the mix of charm and efficiency. Unfortunately, there just wasn’t enough of him to go around. Here, there and everywhere, he just couldn’t keep up. When he brought a wonderful basket of Notting Hill Bakery sourdough with seaweed butter (£7) he quipped, “I also have your drinks, I just don’t have enough hands!” Indeed, an extra pair of hands is exactly what the place needs. The excellent kitchen seems to be in the same boat. Fortunately, I enjoy a leisurely meal.
It was the first cool evening after the heatwave, perfect for dining outside. When the wine did arrive, it too was like a breath of fresh air. A glass of 2020 Vinĉić, Grand Fru from Serbia (£17.40) was excellent. Golden, oaky, full of citrus with a buttery finish. It paired beautifully with the raw tuna (£17). The generous appetizer was mixed with cucumber, fennel, capers and adjika, a chilli pepper paste which added just the right amount of kick. A great start to the meal.
It got even better with beef tartare (£19). 2 big quenelles of fine mince on rye toast with a liberal grating of parmesan cheese and delicious, creamy cured egg yolk. An umami bomb that still has me thinking about it!
A long wait preceded our mains, so I started on a glass of red. Logodaj Melnik Prime Grand Reserve, 2018 (£14) from Bulgaria offered full-bodied elegance, with juicy, dark fruit, great spice and well balanced tannins. Very enjoyable.
Unfortunately, the duck breast (£26) was not worth the wait. Tough, it was served in a pool of too sweet plum sauce that lacked nuance and under-roasted Jerusalem artichokes. Such a shame. Everything else was better than good. This includes whisky and honey-roasted baby chicken (£26). The bitterness of the dark char contrasted perfectly with the whisky and honey glaze in succulent, sticky splendor. A green salsa of fennel, apple and cucumber added fresh, tart and sweet, hitting each corner of my palate.
For dessert, dark chocolate mousse was coupled with sea buckthorn (£11). The berries of this coastal shrub are very tart. On its own, the syrup seemed an unlikely comrade to the rich ganache, but in actuality, the two worked very well together. A pinch of sea salt brought a touch of the divine. Even the Brazilian, who doesn’t eat dessert, ate this one. Damn!
Ditch the duck and hire some help, and I expect Sova will become a Notting Hill fixture. Eastern European wine, Slavic cuisine and vinyl culture might just be the next trend!
