THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
152 Curtain Road, London, EC2A 3AT
Alex Cooper and Anna Andriienko are the co-founders behind this spectacular celebration of Ukraine. It’s not possible to mention Ukraine without thinking of the horrors going on there. Indeed, Alex is still there, where he’s turned his other restaurants into distribution centers in support of the war, feeding those in need. Anna has relocated to London to oversee their first endeavor here with Head Chef Kate Tkachuk. It’s a brilliant debut!
The long dining room with open plan kitchen is perfectly done up in rustic chic. Wood, tiles, dishes and hand painted vases all represent the best of Ukraine and conjure up a feeling of cozy elegance. Comfort and quality in equal parts. In warmer months, the candlelit terrace promises magic.
The menu is based on recipes from Alex’s gran and his hometown, Tatarbunary in the in Odesa Oblast of south-western Ukraine. There’s a lot of tradition, with borscht front and center, but there is plenty of contemporary innovation as well. Sea bass carpaccio (£18) is a case in point. On its own, the finely sliced fish served with both a soy and olive oil dip and a finely chopped, piquant salsa could easily be mistaken for something Peruvian. Here it’s served with a traditional fish yushka – the piping hot broth gave the dish a shot of Ukrainian comfort.
Onion village bread (£9), a soft, fluffy rye was good on its own. With a plate heaped with lardo, it was devastatingly delicious. I love the taste but could only manage half of it. If it didn’t kill me, my doctor would!
One of the signature dishes is tomatoes with lemon yogurt (£11). Pickling brought out the sweetness, and dill and yogurt brought the dish into creamy balance. Potato latkes (£18) were beautifully served in a deep, ceramic pot with porcini mushrooms and sour cream. Topped with fine shreds of crispy potato, like scraps, added eye-catching texture. Pure comfort food.
Varenyks are the Ukrainian version of pierogi. There’s quite a selection of the delectable dumplings to choose from. Minced beef and Lamb (£16) were perfectly spiced and served with a smoked sour cream. Sensational. Certainly up there with “best dumplings ever!”
Shashlik is Ukraine’s kebob. Rib-eye (£33) was overcooked and under-seasoned but had a good char on the quality meat. A glass of 2021 Kara Kermen, Beykush from the Black Sea (£23), a blend of Temperanillo and Seperavi was a good pairing. Dark berries, chocolate, oak and fine tannins in bold balance. A lovely surprise though I’m not sure it warrants such a hefty price tag.
A seasonal berry kompot (£6) was a smooth and delicious homemade non-alcoholic beverage.
Cherry cheburek (£15) nearly did me in! Ginormous! The deep fried pastry exploded with syrup when I cut into it, like a tart cherry fondant. Plombir, an all-natural vanilla ice cream melted enticingly on top. I couldn’t stop eating it!
Alex and Anna bring warmth, generosity and elegance to their table. Things well worth fighting for. I wish they didn’t have to!
