THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
11 Maddox Street, London W1S 2QF
Te for two and two for Te…maki that is. (Sorry. Couldn't help myself!)
I reviewed the original Temaki when it opened in Brixton Market in 2022 with an actual Brixtonite as my guest. It then became one of his local go-tos. Sadly for him, it recently uprooted and moved to Mayfair. I don't know anyone who lives THERE!
Relocating to such a posh neighborhood brings with it a certain expectation along with the hike in price. The food definitely made the upgrade. The rest is hit and miss.
Temaki, or hand rolls for round-eyes, are traditionally cone-shaped versions of maki sushi, meant to be eaten with the hands. They are eaten immediately in order to keep the nori seaweed crisp. The best way to eat them is at a sushi bar which is exactly what Temaki offers. The rolls are made to order and served individually at a leisurely pace. It's a lovely way to eat. The barstools however, are bolted to the floor, as if one size fits all. It doesn't, and I found it impossible to get comfortable. Not what I expect in Mayfair and I find it unlikely that anyone would attempt to run off with them!
Service too made me a bit uncomfortable to begin with, but I put that down to my celebrity status, along with Jay Rayner and Grace Dent! It got better as the evening went on and was very attentive. We had little interaction with the sushi chef who was on his own and working non-stop.
We shared a small carafe of Tedorigawa Yamahai Sake (£15). A very dry Junmai, smooth with a fruity finish. Our first was served very hot. Our second, lukewarm.
The food has retained its excellence from Brixton. Monkfish karaage (£20) is superb. Very crisp, piping hot and served with a spicy mayo. Moreish! Yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño sauce (£20) was beautifully sliced and served in a yuzu dressing without the slightest hint of heat. I loved it anyway.
The Temaki set menus offer best value, though what was £35 in South London in 2022 is now £52 for 6 rolls. They are also rolled sausage style instead of cone-shaped, making them a bit less generous. The quality of the fish is top and soy sauce is served with an eye-dropper to add just the right amount. A wonderful idea.
Akami tuna, the fattier otoro, spicy trout, prawn tempura and barbecue eel were all delicious and we added a salmon avocado in substitution for the unavailable lobster.
The concept is brilliant. There is no better way to eat sushi than directly from the chef's hand. They aren't meant for sharing, but we did anyway.
...Can't you see how happy we would be!
