THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
139 Ebury Street, London SW1W 9QU
Touted as “your new local destination in the heart of Belgravia.” Are you kidding me??? In my dreams!
As you may have ascertained, I live nowhere near Belgravia. We don’t have grade II listed townhouses in Tottenham! I was however, more than happy to make the trip to the latest endeavor by Hubert Beatson-Hird of the Lunar Pub Company. I have reviewed his two other shops, the Apollo Arms and the Hunter’s Moon, both of which are exceptional. The Elizabeth is a makeover of the Ganymede for which he’s teamed up Michelin starred Chef Anthony Demetre with Chef David Halewood. The result is superb.
There isn’t as much pub-feel here as in Beatson-Hird’s other sites. Even gastro pub is an understatement. Bistro and bar is a much better description. Dark wood paneling, deep burgundy and forest green are about as regal as it gets. The cozy darkness is perfectly lit by a fabulous variety of pendants and candlelight. Even I looked good in it!
We were greeted and seated by Hird himself. He could hardly be more affable, a trait shared by his able, top professional staff. I asked what kind of red wine he had by the glass and he suggested a California Pinot Noir. He had me pegged! A ’22 Heritage Collection Pinot Noir, De Loach (£15.50) was right up my Cali alley. Full-bodied, dark berries and spice. Make it two!
The only thing I missed the entire evening, was bread. Alas, there was none to be had. I suppose my waistline is grateful but such a meal deserves bread. How else can one sop up every bit?
Hird also recommended the crisp pig’s head appetizer (£13). It was dish of the day. Savory and packed with flavor, the tender meat was laced with crispy bits. Truly the best part of the pig. Not available at Tesco!
Grilled merguez (£17) was a meal in itself. The spicy sausages, served with butter beans in a rich tomato sauce, labneh and pesto were a veritable flavor bomb. Vive le Levant!
Cod, mussels, fresh white beans and sea herbs (£28) combined the heartiness of a cassoulet with the lightness of seafood. The cod just flaked apart and the dish came together with the briny broth of the mussels.
Rabbit in mustard sauce (£32) showed off the kitchens skill at classic cookery. Succulent and tender, the sauce just punchy enough to keep from overpowering the delicate meat. Served with an excellent faggot, carrots and persillade. Just delightful.
It’s never been my favorite but Chef Demetre’s rum baba with whipped cream (£9) made me a convert. The savarin was as light as the whipped cream and the rum didn’t blow my head off.
Blackberry Pavlova (£9) was both elegant and seasonal. Sweet crisp meringue, fresh berries and whipped cream. The ballerina of desserts.
Nothing is perfect, but in a perfect world I’d be heading around the corner to my Belgravia digs, already planning a return trip to the The Elizabeth.
