THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
For most visitors a trip to the UK the trip wouldn't be complete without a visit to a 'stately home'. They may be drawn to the idea by reading Brideshead Revisited, The Remains of the Day or any of the many books that describe life above and below the stairs of grand country houses owned by the English nobility. Or they may have binge-watched Downton Abbey on TV and then gone to see movie on the big screen. Whatever the reason to visit a stately pile, there is lots of choice and a recently opened exhibition at Waddesdon Manor in Buckinghamshire expands the possibilities.
The exhibition, Alice's Wonderlands, revolves around the life and times and inclinations of Alice de Rothschild. "Miss Alice," as she was called by everyone, inherited Waddesdon Manor in 1898 on the death of her brother, Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild. An avid gardener and art connoisseur, she was also an excellent manager and had a major influence on all areas of the estate.
The exhibition is well researched and offers an engaging narrative about an indomitable and creative woman who developed the manor's collection and gardens. It explains how she sourced new pieces – and why – and how she instituted 'Miss Alice's Rules', detailed instructions for the manor house, garden and farm.
It includes a recreation of her personal sitting room and thereby, a glimpse into Miss Alice's world. Another aspect of the exhibit details her contribution to the collection, which is simply magnificent. The interior of the house is a wonderland. Furnishings exceed expectations with exquisite antique furniture, heirloom carpets and tapestries. The manor is also home to one of the most extensive and inclusive art collections in Britain, containing more than 15,000 pieces. There are some 300 paintings representing the finest of 600 years of fine art, including 15th and 16th century religious paintings and 17th century Dutch landscapes. The 18th century is well represented by British portraits, French fêtes galantes and portraits and Italian scenes. The collection also includes contemporary works. The monumental china collection contains some of the most unique pieces of Sèvres in the world. There is also a well-displayed collection of weapons and examples of the individual interests of members of the Rothschild family.
The Waddesdon gardens are beautiful and it was Alice's love of gardening that helped make them so. She often carried a weeding tool and was an expert on topics from soil types to plant diseases. Sometimes, she would introduce new techniques. Her love of plants and nature is carried on today by the gardeners at Waddesdon who simultaneously preserve many dramatic elements of the Victorian gardens and introduce contemporary sustainable techniques.
They have created a garden for everybody. For lovers of the formal there is the parterre and carpet-bedding surrounding a fountain from an Italian palace. Children can explore the Woodland Playground, which winds through the woods and has activities for all ages. For those yearning for a break from the demands of social media and constant conversation, there is serenity in the Silent Space, an area whose name says it all. And there is Baron's Walk, a winding path that leads through fields of wildflowers and overlooks views of Aylesbury Vale.
Waddesdon Manor may be the very epitome of the grand country home, having been built specifically for this purpose. It was meant to host weekend house parties in the summer (the house was vacant from August to May) and to display the family art collection. It is a breathtaking building, designed by the French architect Gabriel-Hippolyte Destailleur in the French Renaissance Château style of the Loire valley. Construction started in 1877 and the first party was held at the house in 1883.
It is easily accessible with regular trains from London's Marylebone Station to Aylesbury and Aylesbury Vale stations. There, one can find taxis and buses, or follow the Waddesdon Greenway, a cycle and walking route from Aylesbury Vale Parkway to the manor. For those driving, the manor is between Bicester and Aylesbury in Buckinghamshire, just off the A41.
Whether you are only in the UK a short time and have time to visit just one stately home, or if you are an expat jaded by having seen many, Waddesdon Manor merits a visit.
