THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
Innovation, innovation, innovation! And the location ain’t bad either. Patron Chef Alex Craciun’s first solo venture, has been years in the making. Boy, was it worth the wait!
What I love most about Aces is the breadth of experience behind it. Beginning in Romania, Alex went on to work at Gordon Ramsay’s Maze and Noma, and several 3 Michelin starred restaurants in Tokyo, before teaming up with Jason Atherton at the critically acclaimed Sosharu in Farringdon. The equivalent of studying at Oxford, Cambridge and Harvard!
His partner, both in life and business is Aleksandra Jazevica, a purveyor of specialist produce for high-end restaurants. Talk about win-win! On top of that, she leads the superb floor staff. Fine ingredients, French techniques, Japanese precision and a killer soundtrack. Another win!
The intimate dining room has an open kitchen, surrounded by a 9 seat chef’s counter at its center. I wouldn’t sit anywhere else. The hive of activity gives patrons a peek at the skill and precision that goes into such fine food while Chef Alex still finds time to serve and explain his creations.
The tasting menu is £95 for 9 courses. A bargain - get it while you can! There is also an a la carte menu with dishes ranging from £8 - £68.
Salmon roe with a smoked milk espuma was a revelation. The milk took on the umami of cheese, enfolding the brine of fish eggs and earthy crunch of almonds. Wafer thin biscuits, stacked like mille feuille between creamy red pepper and lemon were transformed into food art by edible flowers.
A crunchy prawn dumpling sat atop a shot of mussel juice, fresh herbs, cream and butter. A super crisp nori taco made a brilliant amalgamation of Japan and Mexico with bluefin tuna, sushi rice, avocado, wasabi and piquant mayo.
The umami of a light as air chicken liver parfait was slightly overshadowed by the acidic jelly. Mushrooms in the guise of noodles brought a taste of the Basque country with a deep reduction of mushroom and truffles, garnished with quail egg and nori.
A unique selection of sushi, exquisite food for the eye, brought Alex’s Japanese techniques to the table. Salmon belly, yellowtail and bluefin tuna were complex and innovative but always about the fish. A glorious pickled radish brought the dish home.
Pasta-non pasta replaced noodles with Japanese crosnes, small crunchy root vegetables, in a delicious sauce of delíca pumpkin.
The crowning glory, roasted quail was served in a beautiful head of king cabbage which also made it to the plate in an exquisite slow-cooked version. Sundried tomato ragu cut the richness of a glistening truffle foie gras sauce. The quail was served very rare. Fine by me but a bit too red for my guest.
Aged persimmon and Fuji apple, covered in a divine, aerated yoghurt brought a light, slightly sweet, satisfying end to an exceptional meal.
Aces is a party. Fine dining without the trappings. Expect the unexpected!
