THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
Halkin Arcade, Off Lowndes Street, London, SW1X 8JT
Michelin starred, Indian, tapas-style sharing plates. This is why I love London!
The real genius behind Amaya is the way the team has merged a number of contemporary concepts into one, seamless, fine-dining experience. Most dishes are offered for 2 or 4 people and dividing the menu into “first to arrive” and “later arrivals” sets a new bar for the sharing trend. Our dishes arrived at a perfect pace, allowing us to enjoy each one. And each one was indeed a joy.
I could write volumes about the family behind Amaya. Renowned author and restaurateur, Camellia Panjabi, her sister Namita and husband Ranjit Mathrani are all also the brains behind Veeraswamy, Chutney Mary and Masala Zone. Their influence on Indian cuisine in London is unparalleled.
Dark wood and low lighting create a romantic ambiance, offset with splashes of brilliant color from spectacular wall murals. The centerpiece is clearly the open kitchen with just about every form of grill known to man. 3 tandoors at different temperatures, an open fire grill and a grill pan give the kitchen a range of techniques which they use masterfully. I have been barbecuing for 55 years and I would give anything to get my hands on that kitchen!
Service too is superb. Our charming waiter, Parul, guided us through the menu, made spot on suggestions and ensured we had a flawless meal. His wonderful assistant had everything perfectly in place for each course.
Cocktails are a must. Finlandia with passion fruit and chilli (£19) was a work of tropical art that readied my palate for the treats to come.
Minced chicken and lettuce parcels (£12) started us off with a burst of flavor. Beautifully spiced and dressed in lime and coconut, they were fresh and zingy, tempered with sweetness.
Rock oyster crispy bhajias (£14) were an absolute delight. The lightest batter just barely coated the juicy oyster. Coconut and ginger sauce brought a perfect balance of heat and sweet to the briny shellfish. With these, our waiter suggested a garlic naan. I’m forever grateful! The best I’ve ever had, the bread was soft, charred and glistening with ghee. I raved about it so much, he brought us another, this one topped with freshly grated truffle. You haven’t lived!
Tandoori ocean wild prawns (£25) had us in raptures. To achieve a perfect char while keeping the crustaceans succulent is an absolute art. Superbly spiced, a wedge of lime and artful plating with 2 kinds of chutney made this our favorite dish of the evening. Smoked chilli lamb chops (£25) got the same treatment. Pink, juicy, charred and full of spice.
Punjabi channa chaat in a tart (£18) elevated the punchy flavors of street food to fine dining. The best of both worlds. A crisp, flaky crust filled with spiced chickpeas and potatoes was dressed with yogurt and pomegranate molasses. The generous portion merged sweet, tart, spice and umami into every mouthful. A must!
Ending the meal with rice might sound like an anti-climax. It wasn’t! Artichoke biryani was a knockout. Sealed in dough and opened at the table, the artichokes were beautifully caramelized, the rice fragrant and fluffy. Neither of us thought we could eat any more. We ate the lot!
2 mini slices of lime curd tart and a pure fruit granita ended the meal on a high. The blend of passionfruit and pomegranate was as vibrant in color as it was in taste. Like a mouthful of summer!
2023 has been an amazing year for restaurants. Amaya is one of the absolute highlights.
