THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
Hooray for our side! A touch of America has landed in St James, and a lovely touch it is!
There is no such thing as 'American cuisine'. Every part of the US has a different culinary influence, inspired by the migrants who settled there. The Deep South, and Louisiana in particular, have made some of the biggest, best and most enduring contributions to American food culture. French, Spanish, Portuguese, African and Native American Indian are all part of the great melting pot that is Cajun and Creole cuisine. It is this rich heritage that owner Stephen Less has drawn upon for his new digs smack in the centre of London's theater district. It's licenced until 3am so at last we have a place to whoop it up after theater as well as before!
The grand old place is done up in American brasserie style with deco chandeliers, leather banquettes and an open kitchen, all draped in Spanish moss which is so reminiscent of the south. A mezzanine with a bar and lounge underneath optimizes the space though it obscures some of the original grandeur.
We started in the bar with some signature cocktails. A toast of the West End (£12) and a Memphis Mojito (£15) were both fresh and fruity, the latter spiced with ginger and peppercorn. The charming bartender offered us a sample of his Sazerac in progress, a drink from pre-civil war New Orleans. Whiskey infused with star anise and orange rind made a good substitute for the original blend of Absinthe.
Back in the dining room, I appreciated the high vaulted ceiling before getting down to business. Herbed chicken butter! It was the first thing on the menu to catch my eye and I had to have it. It came with a loaf of warm sourdough (£5). I slathered the mix of chicken fat, butter and herbs on the bread and gobbled it up in a moment of sheer joy, pretending it was good for me!
A lump blue crab cake (£18.50) was exceptional. Pan fried in more good-for-me butter, it was sweet, savory and served with a spiced tartar sauce and scallion vinaigrette. I can't remember the last time I had such a good crab cake.
The Cajun gumbo (£11) is an absolute must, either as a starter or a main. It's a brilliantly spiced take on the Southern American classic with smoked sausage, chicken and vegetables in a rich broth made with the deep, dark rouille that characterises the dish.
Baby back pork ribs (£22) had a good smoky flavour and fell off the bone. They just needed a lick of flame for real, authentic wow factor. A mild barbecue sauce, French fries, pit beans and slaw gave big bang for the buck.
Iberico pork chop (£27.50) was a stunning piece of meat. Beautifully seasoned, it was packed with flavor. Such good pork can easily be served pink, but even medium-well it was still juicy and tender. The apple glaze was a perfect blend of sweet and savory and smashed loaded potato made an excellent side. Another side of perfectly al dente green beans and bacon (£5) was absolutely unnecessary - but I didn't regret ordering it.
The wine list boasts the best selection of American wines I've seen in a long time and there is a good choice available by the glass. A Bonterra Organic Vineyards Zinfandel, 2017 (£9), California's answer to Primitivo, was dry and full of spice, berries and oak. A Sonoma, Louis Martini Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018 (£13) was a real treat, full of fruit, chocolate, oak and smooth tannins.
For dessert, a deep dish apple pie (£8) had a cakey, rather than flaky, crust and a simple filling, augmented with salted caramel, cinnamon crumbs and vanilla ice cream. A darker caramel would offer more contrast to the sweet treat.
A smoked Fashion (£15) was a fine night cap. Bulleit Bourbon, maple syrup and spiced cherry, literally smoked at the table! Booze, smoke and theatre. Now that's Southern hospitality!
