THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
Like the song says, “I love the east, I love the west…” and when they meet in East London, I love them even more. An old Victorian warehouse, Shoreditch vibes, eclectic cocktails and contemporary Japanese food is a mad mix that sets the scene for a very entertaining evening.
The concept began as an homage to the izakaya, Japan’s answer to the tapas bar. Drinks and small plates to be shared in a casual setting. In other words, party time! The ambiance is superb. The warehouse, originally home to an actual apothecary (an olden days pharmacist), is done up beautifully, mixing Japanese aesthetic with the clubs of East London. The leather banquettes and lighting reminded me of the restaurants I frequented in LA in the ‘60s. I couldn’t see a thing. Thankfully I had a pair of younger eyes to read the menu to me!
The menu is all about having a party with drinks sharing equal billing to the food. Cocktails are inventive and representative of the ‘east meets west’ concept. As much as I enjoy trying different concoctions, I often find the cocktails of today overly complicated. I grew up on gin martinis, pretty much raw booze, and I actually like to taste the spirit that is, or should be dominant in the drink. Those we sampled were delicious to be sure, but lost the boozy kick that I prefer. Zen Garden (£11.70) mixed gin with green tea, shiso, lime and salt minerals. I love these Japanese flavors and they worked well here. A spicy margarita (£12.20) with jalapeño and chilli salt had lovely heat but tasted thin rather than complex. Better not bitter (£12.70) was indeed a sweet drink of bourbon and nectarine reminding me of punch. 14 Years (£11.20) mixed gin with coffee which I expected to have a lovely bitter quality but again, was sweet. All fun, but needed a shot on the side.
The food too seems created for a party. There are main dishes on the menu but we stuck with the small sharing plates as they seemed more aligned with the ethos. The food arrived at pace, served by an efficient staff. Miso aubergine (£7.20) had good char and lots of sesame. Yellowtail tiradito (£14.50) was sauced in a punchy mix of yuzu soy, jalapeño, truffle oil, and coriander cress. Spicy batter coated a perfectly crisp soft shell crab (£13.90). Sharp green salsa, sopped up with shredded daikon, added freshness and heat. Jalapeño fried squid salad was a highlight, a real flavor bomb. A spicy tuna dragon roll (£16.50) and Cornish Crab and avocado roll (£14.50) rounded out the fun feast. A little of this, a little of that… indeed pairing well with cocktails.
Yuzu baked cheesecake (£7) and stem ginger custard tart (£7.50) brought Asian flavors to these simple, tasty classics. Miso caramel ice cream (£2.50) was slightly too savory, the miso overpowering the caramel.
Hanging out with friends over cocktails and fun food. I’ll drink to that!
