THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
127-128 Sloane Street, London, SW1X 9AS
As the darkness of winter approaches, the azure blue of the Mediterranean and all its bounty seems but a dream. A taste however, is closer than you think. Just past the queue for Cadogan Hall!
Azzurra is another jewel in the crown of restaurateur David Yeo of Aqua Restaurant Group. With designer Robert Angell and Executive Chef Andrea Mura, it's win, win, win. Angell's fantastic use of fishermen's nets, brilliant lighting and hues of blue has transformed the Sloane Street warehouse into a stunning, brasserie style dining room. A feast for the eye that makes a perfect setting for the feast to come.
Chef Mura uses the freshest seafood from our own waters and lets them shine, Italian style. His food is a lesson in restraint. Just a few, well-chosen ingredients, nothing extraneous on the plate, masterful execution and lots of flavor. Gorgeous!
A Lucky Collins (£17) was indeed a stroke of good fortune. Mezcal, lychee, vermouth and Ancho Reyes was fresh and thirst quenching. Two toasted chunks of rosemary focaccia kept it from going straight to my head. I adore it when bread arrives unbidden. Back in the day, when I was roaming the earth with the other dinosaurs, this was always the case. It's a small, welcoming gesture that I truly appreciate.
The menu is divided into crudo, antipasti, pasta, pizza and mains, nearly all featuring seafood. It's a mouth-watering read. Salmon crudo with ginger and sesame (£14) showed Mura's skill at subtlety right off the bat. Served on ultra-thin wafers, the tartare had the merest hints of Asian flavor. Red prawn crudo (£21) seasoned with blue salt, a rarity from Iran, was even more delicate. At table, our waiter added a light grating of dehydrated, compressed Oscietra caviar, bringing the taste of the sea to the sweet, highly prized Sicilian shrimp.
Spaghetti alla carbonara scampi (£36) highlighted Scottish langoustines beautifully. A light torching brought out the sweet flavor while keeping them melt-in-the-mouth tender. The sauce had fantastic depth, balanced with tuna bottarga and lemon. The pasta was so al dente, it stuck in my teeth.
Swordfish made a delightful substitute to a classic Milanese (£37). The perfect, crispy crust needed nothing more than rosemary salt and a wedge of lemon to make it sing. Vegan pesto brought the taste of Italy to a side of roasted tenderstem broccoli (£11).
A glass of organic 2022 Nero d'Avola, Sensale (£8) made for easy drinking with red fruit and soft tannins.
A perfect replica of an Amalfi lemon brought wow factor to dessert. Cracking into the Limone (£11) revealed a creamy center of ricotta and white chocolate. Lemon pearls brought zing and balance to the sweet filling. A green crumb made a great visual while adding little to the flavor palate. A light, fun and flavorful showstopper.
Service was wonderful and our waiter's delightful sense of humor added some welcome entertainment to our perfectly paced meal.
Maybe not The Med, but still a dream!
