THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
When my bestie visits from Copenhagen, she always wants to go out for Indian. What a happy coincidence that on her recent visit, I was invited to dine at Babur. We’ve sampled quite a few South Asian restaurants over the years and this is right up there with the best of them!
How this restaurant has been off my radar is a mystery. It’s been around for 37 years! That’s remarkable anywhere. In London, it’s nearly unheard of. It’s located 5 minutes from Honor Oak Park overground station. Even for northerners like me, that’s not the end of the world and I would make the trip again in a heartbeat.
The interior is very contemporary with a mix of cool tile and warm wood. Exposed brick gives a touch of New York vibe. There is also a fantastic marquee as well as al fresco dining. Service is excellent, our meal was perfectly paced and prices are far below those of central London.
Cocktails are a must! I started with a Currytini and it was one of the best drinks I’ve ever had…and I’ve had A LOT!!! Bombay Sapphire Gin, fresh curry leaf, green chili, dry Vermouth and lime cordial ignited every part of my palate. And the price? £8.95! You won’t get that in the middle of town. Of course I had another! And with it, poppadoms and an extraordinary selection of chutneys: garlic, ginger, tamarind and mango. These are also available for purchase and come beautifully packaged. Yes!
Buffalo chapli sliders with cumin buns (£8.75) are also great with cocktails. The meat is well spiced and tamarind barbecue and smoked garlic yogurt add sweet, spice and tart. Clove-smoked lamb chops (£11.50) are spiced beautifully, full of flavor and have great char. The excellent meat was served well-done however and lost its succulence.
Baby monkfish tail caldeen (£20.50) is served in a creamy Goan coconut sauce and comes with Samba rice, a smaller grain than Basmati. The sweetness from the coconut balanced the spices well and the fish was tender with just a touch of bite.
Kasundi king prawns (£21.95) charred perfectly and still juicy, are served on a bed of Bengali mustard spiced puffed rice, a lovely bit of crunch. Pickled green papaya brought sweetness to the dish.
On the side, garlicky spinach with mushrooms (£5.95) brought joy to our daily greens and Dal Makhni (£6.25) another burst of flavor. The slow cooked black lentils are just delicious!
Laccha paratha (£2.75) was so flaky, it was almost like eating pastry. Perfect for sopping up the dal!
For dessert, spiced apricot and fig crumble with saffron custard (£5.50) was a nice blend of fruit and spice though the crumble itself could have been more inventive. Mango brûlée (£5.50) was a near perfect end to such a full, spicy meal. The custard was light, creamy and full of fruit; the top crisp with a deep caramelization. Just right!
37 years! I’ll drink another Currytini to that!