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THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE

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Babur

For 37 years this South Asian restaurant has been delighting diners in South London
Michael M Sandwick
Published on May 29, 2023
www.babur.info

Babur

When my bestie visits from Copenhagen, she always wants to go out for Indian. What a happy coincidence that on her recent visit, I was invited to dine at Babur. We’ve sampled quite a few South Asian restaurants over the years and this is right up there with the best of them!

How this restaurant has been off my radar is a mystery. It’s been around for 37 years! That’s remarkable anywhere. In London, it’s nearly unheard of. It’s located 5 minutes from Honor Oak Park overground station. Even for northerners like me, that’s not the end of the world and I would make the trip again in a heartbeat.

The interior is very contemporary with a mix of cool tile and warm wood. Exposed brick gives a touch of New York vibe. There is also a fantastic marquee as well as al fresco dining. Service is excellent, our meal was perfectly paced and prices are far below those of central London.

Babur The magical Currytini

Cocktails are a must! I started with a Currytini and it was one of the best drinks I’ve ever had…and I’ve had A LOT!!! Bombay Sapphire Gin, fresh curry leaf, green chili, dry Vermouth and lime cordial ignited every part of my palate. And the price? £8.95! You won’t get that in the middle of town. Of course I had another! And with it, poppadoms and an extraordinary selection of chutneys: garlic, ginger, tamarind and mango. These are also available for purchase and come beautifully packaged. Yes!

Buffalo chapli sliders with cumin buns (£8.75) are also great with cocktails. The meat is well spiced and tamarind barbecue and smoked garlic yogurt add sweet, spice and tart. Clove-smoked lamb chops (£11.50) are spiced beautifully, full of flavor and have great char. The excellent meat was served well-done however and lost its succulence.

Baby monkfish tail caldeen (£20.50) is served in a creamy Goan coconut sauce and comes with Samba rice, a smaller grain than Basmati. The sweetness from the coconut balanced the spices well and the fish was tender with just a touch of bite.

Kasundi king prawns (£21.95) charred perfectly and still juicy, are served on a bed of Bengali mustard spiced puffed rice, a lovely bit of crunch. Pickled green papaya brought sweetness to the dish.

On the side, garlicky spinach with mushrooms (£5.95) brought joy to our daily greens and Dal Makhni (£6.25) another burst of flavor. The slow cooked black lentils are just delicious!

Laccha paratha (£2.75) was so flaky, it was almost like eating pastry. Perfect for sopping up the dal!

For dessert, spiced apricot and fig crumble with saffron custard (£5.50) was a nice blend of fruit and spice though the crumble itself could have been more inventive. Mango brûlée (£5.50) was a near perfect end to such a full, spicy meal. The custard was light, creamy and full of fruit; the top crisp with a deep caramelization. Just right!

37 years! I’ll drink another Currytini to that!

Babur

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