THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
10 Poland Street, London W1F 8PZ
I write this as someone no longer in the first flush of youth. But at 7.30pm on a Thursday evening Soho is a noisy place. Crowded bars and restaurants are overflowing with post-work revelry. If you want a quiet dinner for two, don't go to the Soho branch of Bodean's. But if you're happy with cheerful rowdiness, this could be the place for you. On two floors, with low lighting, dark walls and furniture, screens showing sporting events, and energetic staff, it's busy, buzzy and loud.
You would also need to be a meat lover. Bodean's has a slightly chequered history but recently teamed up with Richard H Turner, a well-known chef and high end butcher, in an effort to restore its reputation for quality. Under the tag line of Barbecue, Bourbon & Beer
it aims to offer an authentic American BBQ experience - a celebration of meat. The best barbecued ribs I've eaten were from a mobile food truck in Coeur d'Alene - a town in Idaho. So I was keen to see how well Bodean's matches up to a place which proved that it's not where, but how you cook meat that matters.
The American-style menu took me back to the places I ate in on a road trip from Chicago to Seattle a few years ago. We started our meal with a shrimp cocktail (£8) and some hot, smoked chicken wings (£8). The shrimp turned out to be king prawns with a fiery tomato sauce which along with the spicy and juicy chicken wings went perfectly with ice cold beer. The selection of American beers and bourbon on offer adds to the authentic feel of the menu.
Then came the meat. We chose the signature platter, a mountain of smoked pork and beef ribs, pulled pork, smoked brisket and Texas link sausage. The menu states that the platter is for 2 or 3 people. Hmmmm…maybe if they are strapping young rugby players who've been lost in the jungle for a week living on berries and ants! Otherwise the platter will generously feed four adults. Which, at £60, makes it a great bargain. The meat is smoky, tender, moist and flavorsome. I also discovered that Texas link sausage packs a punch. The strong flavors call for robust accompaniments, but the pickles and vinegar slaw are up to the job. We also ordered a serving of fries and chipotle mayonnaise. Just to try them, obviously. Greens are in short supply, but there are some salad options. Even one without meat!
In short, this is not food which is trying to please everyone. Nor is it delicate or elegant – forget napkins, each table has a large roll of kitchen paper! There are a few vegetarian options, but you sense as an afterthought – a post-production edit to a film where meat is the star.
I liked Bodean's honesty and the simplicity of its offer. If you want a lively celebration with carnivore friends who enjoy food for a reasonable price, it fits the bill perfectly.
