THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
49 Newman Street, London W1T 3EB
The Newman Hotel got off to a grand start, scooping The Times' London Hotel of the Year title for 2026. At its heart, Brasserie Angelica adds a touch of class to the hotel's all day dining.
The Art Deco and Victorian styles mingle with a Scandi aesthetic, bringing a lovely mix of classic and contemporary all wrapped up in quality materials. So too is the mix of Executive Chef Christian Turner's menu of classics dotted with Scandinavian influences. Having lived in Copenhagen for 25 years, I was more than intrigued by the thought of an open sandwich trolley. I'll have to pop in for lunch!
A bottle of Belu water and a lovely, warm baguette with estate dairy butter appeared unbidden. I thought those days departed with chivalry! For once, we could forget about the perils of drinking on an empty stomach! A lemon light (£10) was an elegant mix of Tanqueray, dry Vermouth, Cocchi Americano, Fernet Branca and bitters. All the right notes in a stemmed glass.
Rabbit rillettes (£12) were lovely, served on rye crackers, but the star of the show was the fantastic carrot pickles. I wanted to take a jar home!
I enjoyed the smooth earthiness of beetroot soup (£12). A horseradish cream and smoked cheese dumplings didn't pack the flavor punch I was expecting, but all together, the soup was well rounded and served piping hot.
A glass of '23 organic Primitivo de Puglia was a bargain at £13. Full-bodied, smooth tannins, plummy fruit and a touch of spice.
Hake Tail (£30) was served swimming in glorious brown butter with capers. A tad overcooked on the wood fire grill but sweet, delicious and served with elegance.
A rare breed pork chop (£36) had a beautiful caramelization from the wood fire. The meat was tender and the fat perfectly rendered. Served with a smooth parsnip puree, roasted heritage carrots and a nicely balanced sauce of verjus.
Grilled hispi cabbage (£7) was tasty but could have used a bit more char. Jansson's temptation (£8), potato and sprat (anchovy) gratin is a Swedish classic, typically served at Christmas. Perfect with the pork, creamy and topped with crisp buttery breadcrumbs.
I couldn't resist a Pinot Noir from Kent! The '23 Rabbit Hole from Simpsons Wine Estate opened up quite well. Light and fresh, I was quite impressed but had to question the £19 price tag.
Manjari chocolate pudding with rum and banana ice cream (£14) was Turner's excellent take on fondant, oozing molten chocolate from its center. Too rich for my old stomach but nicely cut with a good hit of booze. I'm sure younger beings would devour it all. Crème caramel, Armagnac prunes and toasted brioche (£14) was a creamy, boozy delight, much better suited to a gentleman of a certain age! I had no problem licking that plate!
Service was top. Attentive, attention to detail, well-informed, and very welcoming. Certainly on a par with the 5-star hotel.