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THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE

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Carlotta

77-78 Marylebone High Street, London W1U 5JX
Reviewed by Michael M Sandwick
Published on June 12, 2023
www.bigmammagroup.com/en/trattorias/carlotta

Carlotta Exterior PHOTO: JEROME GALLAND

A stroll through Marylebone village is pretty sweet any time. Living there is beyond reach for most of us, but a meal at Carlotta's at least gives a taste of la dolce vita!

From the moment I walked in, I just felt happy. The staff is superlative and every member exudes charm as though this attribute is completely natural! Our waitress, Elisa, was an absolute gem.

The ambiance is a fabulous mix of glam-Italian and family-run trattoria. There are plush leather banquettes and the lighting, in all its guises, is just brilliant. Drapes and art are punctuated with family photos from the staff. Downstairs has a distinct club feel, its soft curves covered in stripes of mirror with an open kitchen adding bustle to the buzz.

Italian Chocolate Tart PHOTO: JOANN PAI

Head Chef Armando excels in the role of "Big Mamma", mixing classic recipes from his nonnaa with innovation. This blend is mirrored in the bar. A Chedroni (£11) added chamomile and Nardini Aqua de Cedro (citrus liqueur) for a softer Negroni. A Serpentino Martini (£12) became rounder with Marsala and vanilla bitters. Gin and vanilla is surprisingly good! Ginilla?

Carciofi alla giudia - deep-fried artichokes (£12) - were perfectly crisp with a lovely bit of char on the outer leaves and served with lemon and garlic aïoli. From the Jewish community in Rome, this dish has become a classic in Italian cuisine and Chef Armando does it very well.

Fresh and confit cherry tomatoes (£12) with smoky stracciatella, basil and a garlic, balsamic dressing is Italian at its best. Fine ingredients in perfect balance, hitting every note on the palate. Fresh and delicious, I slurped up every drop.

Next, we shared spaghetti with Sicilian Rosso di Mazara prawns (£35). As exquisite as these highly prized prawns are, three the size of my pinkie seemed a bit meager for the price tag, served in the shell it was a struggle to extract the delicate flesh, and they weren't properly de-veined. That said, the dish was divine. The thick spaghetti was perfectly al dente and the bisque was rich and full of flavor.

Cornish lamb chops Milanese (£29) was a show stopper. Stuffed with fior di latte, a creamy mozzarella, wrapped in pancetta, breaded and deep fried, they were melt-in-the-mouth good. A roasted pepper cream was a perfect condiment.

Crunchy layered potatoes (£6.50) - wafer thin slices, pressed, cut into chips, flavored with Parmesan and fried - were simply gorgeous, and broccoli with chilli and garlic (£5) a green dream.

A bottle of Sangiovese Toscana, I.G.T. Terraluna, 2016 (£92) was worth every penny. Full and smooth with beautifully soft tannins, I would love a case of it!

Tiramisu (£8) was an excellent take on the classic, but Italian chocolate tart (£11) took the cake! Salted caramel chocolate ganache in a crisp chocolate cookie crust nestled on an entire plate of whipped cream and topped with a magnificent coffee praline. After that, my only wish was to jump straight into the Trevi!

Carlotta Ground Floor PHOTO: JEROME GALLAND

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