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THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE

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Compton

47 St John's Square, Clerkenwell, London, EC1V 4JJ
Reviewed by Michael M Sandwick
Published on June 28, 2022
www.compton.restaurant

Chocolate cremosa Compton's chocolate cremosa

When was the last time you thought, "I think I'll take a stroll in Clerkenwell?" It's not generally on my radar, but it's a beautiful part of the city, steeped in history. It's also home to Compton, a delightful neighborhood bistro.

Housed in a lovely red brick townhouse with an al fresco terrace overlooking St John's Square, the dining room has a unique, no nonsense style that's very inviting. The tasteful simplicity sets the stage for the impeccable food of Executive Chef Michael Shaw and Head Chef Sam Monastyrskyj. Their ever-changing menu of Mediterranean and Spanish inspired sharing plates is inventive, interesting, nice to look at and damn good to eat. I enjoyed every bite and the prices are great value.

The cocktail and wine lists are small but well thought out. I couldn't resist The Paloma, a simple, thirst quenching mix of tequila with fresh lime and grapefruit juice. It was so refreshing to have a drink that wasn't over-complicated. My beautiful blonde companion doesn't like to drink on an empty stomach so I ordered 2 curried cauliflower croquettes with onion bhaji mayo at £1.50 each! Call me daddy. I should have ordered 6! Crispy sesame crumb coating outside and creamy, oozy cauliflower inside; they were just heavenly.

The sharing concept is often a bit haphazard. Not so here. Our meal was timed perfectly so we got to enjoy each plate. We started with a salad of broad beans and peas with creamy ricotta and lemon (£10) with delectable shreds of crispy kale. So simple. So good. BBQ Cornish squid (£12) brought the Spanish influence to the table with romesco, a beautiful tomato based sauce, perfect with squid.

Hand rolled strozzapreti (£9) came deservedly by itself. The pasta tubes with hen of the woods mushrooms, fine herbs and parmesan was just sensational. Again, this was not fussy, just fabulous ingredients cooked well and in great balance.

King prawns (£20) were coated in the most divine paste of chilli and garlic, I had to suck every bit of it off the heads and tails. This was surely anticipated as a finger bowl was provided. Chargrilled hispi cabbage (£12) came with a pumpkin puree, pumpkin seeds and summer truffle. If children grew up eating veg like this, they would never eat anything else.

A glass of Laztana Reserve Rioja Doca, Bodega Olarra 2017 was a good tempranillo, full-bodied with cherry, vanilla and spice.

British strawberries were pretty as a picture on a circle of Champagne jelly with honeycomb (£7). Champagne and strawberries wins every time! Chocolate cremosa (£7) was a decadent treat with lime curd and milk ice cream. The cremosa was so thick, I had to lick it off the spoon.

Service is very good with a natural friendliness that gives the neighborhood vibe that keeps people coming back.

Compton has also opened a deli right next door. I must have a stroll in Clerkenwell for a salt beef on rye!

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