THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
Edit: the art of altering elements to improve the whole.
After becoming a vegan, founder Elly Ward chucked her career as an architect and decided to throw herself whole…um…er…hog into the restaurant biz. She’s ticking a lot of boxes. Hyper seasonal, veg-forward, EDIT is in fact vegan. Designed with her (still) architect hubby, Joe Morris, the bare brick walls, reclaimed, up-cycled furniture and tiles are right on trend. The former factory atmosphere is bright, inviting and inclusive.
I’m an omnivore of the “all things in moderation” ilk. While I admire much about vegan culture, at the end of the day I judge vegan food the same way I judge all food. Is it prepared with care and do I want to eat it? At EDIT, there is a LOT of heart and soul on every plate. Execution however, is a bit hit and miss.
Thank heaven booze is vegan!!! A negroni and a botanical gin lemonade (£11) were both good drinks and with no animals mistreated in the process, it was a gin, gin situation! A Scandinavian walnut rye and superb toasted focaccia with leek top oil and broad bean hummus (£6) made an excellent accompaniment.
Why salsify isn’t served more often is a mystery. Roasted and served with aioli (£9), it was an absolute delight. The eggless “mayo” was light and flavorful. A very good interpretation. Calcots too are a veg I would like more of. Somewhere between a spring onion and a leek, they were roasted beautifully and served with a romesco sauce (£8). Vibrant tomato and the crunch of almonds.
Red, white and golden beetroot (£11) were also roasted perfectly and served with a creamy carrot puree. Delicious roasted kale added the needed hit of salt to the sweet dish.
Winter tomatoes (£12) were crisp and tart, served with 3 cornered leek (an allium), yellow carrot and sunflower seed “mozzarella” which I’m sad to say was nothing like. I’ve yet to try a vegan meat or cheese that I like and this was no exception. It was gummy and tasted artificial.
Fermented Napa cabbage filled with lentil “haggis” was served with potato puree and leek top oil (£16). Beautifully presented, but had it not been called haggis I wouldn’t compare it to one. It was in fact a good lentil nut loaf but had none of the characteristic peppery taste I associate with the Scottish delight. The potato puree was so overworked, it turned the starch to glue.
Emmer wheat (aka farro) made an excellent, protein-rich risotto with wild mushrooms, cauliflower leaf and rosemary oil (£18).
A Sauvignon Blanc and Montepulciano (£7.50) were both good, sustainable wines on tap.
A scattering of seeds did little to sweeten a forced rhubarb crumble (£8). The “custard” did, but had none of the comforting, creamy texture of the real deal.
Service is excellent, the vibe is right and the philosophy behind it all deserves respect. The food just needs a little more editing.
