THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
2022 was a great year for the London restaurant scene. In spite of all the Covid/Brexit/cost of living difficulties, the industry fought back with innovation and spirit and my final review ended the year with a bang! It's the fourth time I have reviewed the Galvin brothers' various establishments and they never disappoint.
The dining room was originally designed by Charles Fitzroy Doll in 1898 in what was then the Hotel Russell. He later used this design for his dining room on the Titanic! The room has certainly retained its opulence, though now it is an eclectic mix of Victorian and contemporary design with columns covered in mirrors and curved banquettes weaving their way down the ornate room. My eyes kept wandering between the stunning plaster ceiling and big splashes of Christmas.
This mix of modern and old school suits the Galvins very well. The food is classic with a twist and service is spot on with an easy friendliness. Our waiter Francesco and sommelier Alex made a great team. They were always there when we needed them.
A glass of Galvin's own NV Brut Reserve (£14.50) got the festivities rolling. The abundance of Pinot Meunier adds a dry earthiness to the light citrus.
We were presented with a large tray of meat to help us decide what to order. It worked like a charm. Iberico pork chop (£36) and sirloin on the bone (£42)? SOLD!
But first, Dorset crab and sea trout on toast (£18). Delightful, with a lovely consistency, but the crab was overpowered by the oily fish. Pâté en croute (£18) was fabulous. Ham hock in a short crust, carved at table and served with homemade piccalilli, pickled onions and fig chutney. Just lovely. I'd forgotten how much I love piccalilli! Perfect with the salty meat.
A bottle of 2015 Rioja, Reserva, Sierra Cantabria (£72) went well with our meat laden meal. Cherry, oak, cedar and spice balanced well with fine tannins.
The pork was served just pink. Such fine meat can be even pinker for my taste but this was juicy and delicious. Black pudding and prune purée were great accompaniments, balancing sweet and savory. The sirloin was done to a turn. The fat content gave tons of flavor and the steak was tender as can be. The sauce béarnaise was sublime. I should have ordered chips to dunk in it! Instead, two excellent sides of grilled Portobello mushrooms with garlic butter and baby gem with buttermilk and Parmesan (£6) made me feel slightly more virtuous!
A gateau of dark and white chocolate (£14) had a chewy consistency that was neither cake nor cream. I didn't understand it. The clementine ice cream was a dream. Classic bread and butter pudding (£8) was a joy to eat. Dense and custardy with a perfect brûlée top. As if that wasn't enough, a Tart Tatin appeared at the table. I said, "Oh, I couldn't possibly!!!" I did. It's a must!
