THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
Having just seen Evita in Concert, I was already crying for an Argentine steak and a bottle of Malbec. Gaucho provided just that and surprisingly more. The steak chain has upped the ante in their new digs in Covent Garden and (spoiler alert) added secret tango to the menu. Hot dancers, great music, beef, and booze made for a great night out!
The location, adjacent to Covent Garden station, is superb. Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, pre- and post-theater into the wee hours, they seem to have all bases covered. The ground floor offers a light-filled welcome with booths and a bar. Below ground takes on a sultry club feel, fusing the tango halls of Buenos Aires with the theatricality of the West End. Pleated curtains hang from all the walls, cocooning the guests in 1930s glamour. I half expected to see cigarette smoke permeate the air. At 9pm on Fridays and Saturdays, tango couples dance around the room, negotiating their routines around the tables with elegance. They were beautiful to watch. The staff too had an elegance about them, and we were looked after with friendly efficiency.
Flor Del Mundo (£13.50) is a tasty concoction of gin, elderflower liqueur, yuzu, lemon and matcha. As an elderflower aficionado, I missed the delicate "flor" but enjoyed the drink. Smoke & Mirrors (£14.50) had a better balance with smoky mezcal mellowing the mix of tequila, Muyu Vetiver Gris, Aperol, and lemon.
Seared Diver Scallops (£22) packed a punch with 'nduja butter, aguachile verde and lemon crumb. One could argue that the delicate shellfish got lost in the mix, but the combination was delectable, balancing heat with fresh herbs, citrus and crunch.
Hamachi (yellowtail) tiradito (£18.50) elevated the fish with yuzu pearls, panko crumble, soy, and an excellent truffle mayonnaise. A dish I could eat again and again.
Gaucho specializes in Argentine steak and the quality is top. Beef is a bit of a "no-no" these days, but one is assured that their breeds are 100% carbon neutral, offset by other endeavors they take to minimize carbon emissions. I only eat beef once in a blue moon. Luckily, this month is actually a blue moon!
A wagyu sirloin was full of meaty flavor, coupled with the tasty fat the breed is known for. So delicious, but so rich, it's almost too much for a stomach of a certain age! A 500g tira de ancho (spiral cut ribeye, £50.50) was a joy. Marinated in chimichurri and grilled perfectly medium rare with a great char, it was exceptional. The fat was beautifully rendered, leaving juicy, tasty meat. Hand-cut chips (£6) and confit button mushrooms (£6.50) were both good sides.
The wine list boasts an amazing selection of Argentine wines. A bottle of 2016 Viña Patricia D'Oro Malbec (£88) was excellent. Well-rounded, fruit forward, spicy with soft tannins.
For dessert, a dolce de leche cheesecake (£10) had me singing "Don't Cry for Me Argentina"!
