THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
15 Bury Street, St. James's, London, SW1Y 6AL
What a way to end the year! In the last few months, I’ve had the privilege of dining in some of the finest restaurants London has to offer. Ginza is right up there with the best of them!
The interior is sleek and chic, black walls accentuated with blonde wood and rice paper lanterns. A contemporary take on Japanese minimalism with robata and teppanyaki counters taking center stage. The music hits just the right note for a bit of party atmosphere and there are a number of rooms for those who wish to make the party private.
5 star service ensured our meal flowed seamlessly from start to finish.
My Danish guest and I perused the extensive cocktail list. When we hit upon the Buroshea - Malfy Rosa gin, lychee, ginger, lemongrass, yuzushu and two keys grapefruit - we both lit up like Christmas trees, blinding each other in the process so neither of us noticed that the Buroshea was £60 and meant to be shared by 4! A stroke of luck as it turned out. The half-liter of fresh, floral heaven lasted the entire meal, worked surprisingly well with the food and doubled as a palate cleanser between courses.
Spicy tuna tartare (£23.50) was a very fine blend of akami and the fattier toro tuna. Gochujang added heat and onion ponzu a bit of acid to the umami packed mix. The spread like consistency was lovely on its own but cried out for a crisp wafer to eat it with.
Yellowtail carpaccio (£22.50), thin as paper, was dressed with yuzu soy, coriander cress and finger lime. The citric pop of the Australian fruit (aka caviar lime) worked beautifully with the delicate fish.
Soft shell crab (£11.50) was a crunchy delight, rounded out with fresh lime, red onion and a spicy mayo. Lobster (£35) was another tempura treat though not as crisp. The meat was cooked to perfect succulence, tendashi sauce brought the umami and another spicy mayo a bit of punch.
The 21 piece chef’s selection of sashimi (£70) is the best of the best. The fish is absolute top quality and practically melted in my mouth in delicate waves. At the other end of the spectrum, ebi ten maki (£18.50) was full of flavor and crunch. Crisp tempura prawn, cucumber, kanpyo (a Japanese gourd) and spicy mayo is as full on as sushi gets. Tempura flakes, like scraps, were scattered on top, adding more delightful, deep fried crunch.
Black cod saikyo yaki (£42) was cooked perfectly, just flaking apart and glazed with a sweet and savory miso sauce. Smoky yuzu miso lamb (£45), surprisingly sweet, had great char and juicy, pink meat. The 3 chops came with a lovely, smoky aubergine purée, bringing a touch of the Levant.
For dessert, a tofu and coconut pannacotta was just right after such a big meal. Silky, light, not too sweet and paired with strawberry and rhubarb.
Happy holidays everyone. See you in 2024… when I start my diet!
