Itaku

The thought of fusing Japanese and Italian cuisine sent my mind reeling! Pizza maki? Sushi lasagne??? Thankfully, Head Chef Ivan Simeoli had better ideas. His food is sensational!

For me, Fitzrovia is London’s foodie hot spot and Itaku is well placed there, just minutes from Oxford Circus. The old townhouse has been done up beautifully by Maria Morra. A modern take on Japanese minimalism with Italian chic. Already the two countries are hitting it off very well.

Our cocktails were a bit long in the making, but well worth the wait. I had an Affair (if only): Gin, yuzu infused sake, limoncello and Sicilian lemon tonic (£14.50). A punch with punch, sweet and citrus. A Madame Butterfly (£16) was even better. Vodka, Italicus, Butterfly pea tea and rosé Champagne. A really well-balanced drink. Both did justice to the fusion concept.

The food had us moaning with pleasure from the get go. Mazara Del Vallo red prawns (£25) were heavenly. Chef Simeoli serves the sweet Sicilian shrimp raw, with ponzu sauce adding a good hit of acid, sea foam and shavings of fresh Perigord truffle. I forgot all about pizza maki!

Akami tuna with Oscietra caviar (£29) was another triumph. Akami is the least fatty part of the tuna, perfect for a very fine tartare, seasoned delicately with Amalfi lemon ponzu. A real joy. Appetizers are pricey but the ingredients are exceptional. You get what you pay for.

Our pasta course was the best example of “Italanese” fusion. Capelletti (£21), stuffed with ricotta and Sicilian lime zest were served in a Dashi broth with wakame seaweed and shimeji mushrooms. It combined the two cuisines in equal parts, each complimenting the other. The pasta brought the best of Italy and the broth, the undeniable flavor of Japan.

Monkfish (£25) with pumpkin, miso and Frate’s beard (Mediterranean sea veg a.k.a. Monk’s beard) was a lesson in umami. Rich and succulent, it just sang with flavor.

Wild sea bream (£21) can’t compete with the other high end ingredients on the menu, but Chef Simeoli’s version of it put it right at the top of the hit list. The fish is wrapped in salted kale and roasted to such dark perfection, I was astonished at the depth of flavor he achieved. Excellent cookery!

Cime di rapa (turnip tops doesn’t sound nearly as enticing) with chilli and yuzu (£6) rounded out our 5-a-day with panache and a bottle of 2019 Pouilly-Fumé Les Chailloux Silex, Chatelain (£56) washed it all down with elegance. A well-rounded mix of minerals, citrus and honey.

For dessert, milk and honey showed off the ingredients as a mousse, ice, wafer and caramel crunch. Presented beautifully, it was naturally sweet and I enjoyed the play with textures.

Itaku tirami su is Simeoli’s deconstructed take on the classic. The flavor of coffee just perked on my palate. The light, cream-filled cake was rolled up in the shape of a small cigar, just like a… tirami maki!!!

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