KĨMA

When one of my favorite teams announced the opening of their new restaurant in Marylebone, I could hardly contain myself! The latest venture by Andreas Labridis and Nikos Roussos follows their triumphs with Pittabun, OPSO and INO and it is spectacular. KĨMA is the Greek word for wave. This surely refers to the sea but it could easily allude to the wave of success!

With its white walls, wood floors, azure banquettes and stunning display of fresh fish, I was nearly transported to the magical time I spent in the Cyclades. My dripping umbrella reminded me otherwise!

The team, both on the floor and in the kitchen, is brilliant. In only its second week, there is already the smooth confidence that comes from experience and dedication. Chef Nikos himself is warm, fun, giving and full of life. That is exactly what he puts on the plate. Top ingredients are treated with both respect and innovation. The result is exquisite. I was only too happy to let him order for me but this proved a double-edged sword. He nearly killed me with culinary kindness! The fin to gill concept offers all sorts of delicacies and it's recommended to share four or five plates between two. Nikos sent us ten, after which I had to "kima" goodbye to my waistline!

A feta sour (£16) was too tempting to ignore! I couldn't imagine how it could work but like a dirty martini or Bloody Mary, the salty cheese worked wonders with anise flavored spirits.

Rock oysters with fennel salsa (£6.50 each) were a perfect start, mingling brine with sweet anise. Slivers of bottarga (salted, cured fish roe) in a thin skin of butter (£13) made a perfect canape on grilled toast.

A seabream crudo (£18) was an absolute highlight. Wafer thin, it is topped with glorious unripe olive oil, lemon zest, lemon thyme and rock salt. The portion is very generous but you still might want to order two!

Nikos brought some Japanese influence to lamb soutzoukaki, the Greek version of köfte, (£12), topping it with eel and serving it with aged soy and egg yolk. A fabulous fusion, albeit a salty one.

With all these wonders, it's difficult to imagine that Greek salad (£17) could be a showstopper, but trust me, it is! Cherry tomatoes, more glorious olive oil and the best, creamiest feta you'll ever eat is absolutely divine, especially with the Greek answer to la scarpetta, the Italian tradition of sopping it all up with bread.

Skate wing souvlaki (£8) came with flat bread in the shape of tacos. The meaty fish was complimented with a simple salad garnish and light creamy dressing. Octopus (£34) is also served very simply with vinegar, olive oil and fried capers. The tentacle was tender as can be, charred perfectly.

Prawn carabinieros (red prawns, £65) are served raw on a bed of orzo in tomato sauce, very similar to risotto. The prized crustaceans are sweet, delicate and absolutely melt in your mouth. Smoked potato mash topped with mustard seeds (£7) is another must and a whole, smoked, charred broccoli (£10) is given new meaning with wasabi sweetened yogurt.

Three lovely Greek wines brought fun to the feast. A light dry Chardonnay from Macedonia (£13) and a beautiful Assyrtiko from Santorini. A Muscat from Samos (£12) complimented a smooth, creamy yogurt with berries and olive oil. After all that, I definitely can't contain myself!

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