THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
With so much focus on the cost of living crisis, it was a Cinderella moment to find myself at this magnificent restaurant just off Grosvenor Square. Talk about the flip side of the...um...KOYN!
Dinesh and Samyukta Nair, the father and daughter behind KOYN have coupled fine dining with originality, creativity and a great buzz. Of course it comes with a price tag but you absolutely do get what you pay for. "Sam" collaborated with Tom Strother of Fabled Studio to design the split level space based on Mt. Fuji. The quality and detail are outstanding. Upstairs, MIDORI, reflects the living green of the mountain. Light and air fill the soft curves of the room while paying homage to Japanese minimalism. Downstairs MAGMA, the inner volcano, turns up the heat with a clubby vibe and an open kitchen, firing up delights on the robata grill. Two worlds. One menu. And what a menu!
Executive Chef Rhys Cattermoul is a huge talent. He's created an astounding menu of modern Japanese cuisine with brilliant innovation and masterful restraint. Exclusive ingredients are treated respectfully and, in every case, cooked to perfection.
The bar team is on the same page. A MIDORI margarita (£16) added wasabi to the mix and chilli to the salted rim. The jasmine in a Sakura Negroni (£16) added a sweet note before the bitter Campari kicked in. Fabulous. More so with an order of Senbei. 4 rice crackers filled with the highest grade Wagyu beef, sweet onion soy and a pinch of red chilli and ginger (£62). 4 bites of heaven.
Salmon tataki (£17.50) served in a dressing of miso and mustard was so good, I had to ask for a spoon!
Chilean sea bass (£46.50) was possibly the best piece of fish I've ever had. It just flaked apart, still had bite and was dripping with juice. The shiso salsa verde was a stroke of genius. Alaskan king crab (£60) on the half shell with hot honey aioli was even better. Respect!
Green tea smoked lamb cutlets (£38.50) showed off the skill of the robata chef. Charred perfectly, pink in the middle, juicy and tender with a sticky soy glaze. Beautiful with a side of tenderstem broccoli in shio Kombu butter (£12).
The sushi bar is also top rate, both for quality and execution. Grilled eel maki with cucumber and sweet soy (£15) was a highlight.
The sky's the limit for wine and sake. We were quite modest with a carafe of Chiyomusubi Junmei Ginjo sake (£40). Served warm, it had generous hints of liquorice. A glass of 2020 Meursault Pellans, Domaine Vincent Latour (£27) was elegantly balanced. Wood, acid, mineral and butter!
A chocolate fondant (£10) with green tea ice cream hit the right notes of sweet and bitter and ooooozed hot chocolate lava like a Mt. Fuji eruption.
All was served impeccably by an abundant, superb team headed by our exceptional waiter, Sam. To KOYN a phrase, I'll be back!
