THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
Our journey to Saint-Paul de Vence took twice as long as it should have done as, just for fun, we decided to try the electronic guidance of 'English Kate', who pronounces Nice, France like 'nice day' but failed to show it, while her electronic map sent us round in circles. So it was a relief to reach the beautiful medieval "village perche" perched on a small mountain with massive walls, the better to pour down boiling oil and boulders to keep at bay the marauding Saracen raiders in search of treasure and women. (The Saracens were still rampant in the Mediterranean when they captured Josephine Bonaparte's best friend returning from the West Indies, only for her then to become their Empress in Istanbul. But that's another story!)
Facing the village is the wonderful La Colombe d'Or – legendary refuge of some of France's greatest artists, then of France's greatest movie stars before, during and just after the War. What took them there were the extraordinary light, colors and vegetation (palm trees, olives, cypresses and oleanders) of Provence, plus the fact that it was outside the German occupied zone until nearly the end of the hostilities. Picasso, Matisse, Chagall, Braque, Miro, Klimt and later Calder all stayed there, with the proprietor, Paul Roux, allowing them to pay for their food and lodging with their still then much less well known paintings.
To this day, in the dining room you will find a painting by Picasso, a girl's head by Matisse, a wonderful lobster by Braque plus a Miro, a Klimt and a couple of Calders – better and more fun than visiting most museums.
France's most widely read poet since Victor Hugo, Jacques Prévert, wrote his poems there. His most famous poem was: "Une orange sur la table / Ta robe sur le tapis / Et toi dans mon lit."
Their most famous movie stars, Yves Montand and Simone Signoret got married there. A dozen doves were released, one of which landed on her blonde hair. (Signoret's greatest film, Casque d'Or – Golden Helmet – was named after her. And Colombe d'Or, incidentally, means Golden Dove.) She was so beautiful that, according to Sartre, the pens of all the writers clustered at the Cafe Flore in Paris would fall from their fingers whenever she walked through the door. This did not stop Montand, in truly French fashion, having a fling later with Marilyn Monroe!
The place to dine is on the beautiful outdoor terrace full of shady trees and half hidden tables behind them, plus a mosaic by Fernand Leger.
The menu was designed by Paul Roux and the waiters are of the very best French old school. Trying to get a booking in summer requires a reservation at least a month ahead but things are much better in May, June and September, which is the best time to visit anyway.
The tiny hotel has just 25 rooms plus a pool with a large Calder mobile, reminding me irresistibly of the huge Calder sculpture in the four story high atrium where I use to work in the Senate Hart building in Washington DC! I passed it daily in awe.
The menu never changes, beautifully simple and all the better for that. A piece de resistance is the basket of raw Provençal vegetables from the garden.
Our 'dejeuner' consisted of lovely vegetable soup and green beans cooked perfectly in butter. Plus shrimps, and delicious veal kidneys for my other half, who then downed a Provençal digestif which smelled like mandarin oranges. (Despite all the temptations in France, nursing my Coke Zero, I remain steadfastly dry!) Our waiter Jacquot (see photo) wants you all to know that he is handsome and unattached. Lunch at La Colombe d'Or remains one of best value experiences in Provence.
If you are feeling energetic, the garden descends vertiginously, but with a great view of the village fortress opposite. The only mishap was a pretty young waitress stepping on a minute dog hidden under a table. In a panic at its yelping, she then managed to step on the poor thing again.
On the way back to Antibes we relied on our own resources rather than on 'English Kate.'
PS Please don't pass this on to any of your friends or it will be even harder to get in to La Colombe d'Or than it is already.
