THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
Some people just light up a room. Chef Masha Rener is one of them. Whether she's on the line, whipping up a pasta, or on the floor charming her clientele, she shines with charisma and passion. No wonder her food is an absolute joy!
Lina Stores Delicatessen opened on Brewer Street in 1944, long before Chef Rener was even a thought! In 2018, Masha headed up the first restaurant on Greek Street – now there are four. All have retained the original pistachio green color scheme of the first deli. It's cool and cheerful, like a big bowl of ice cream. The vibe in the packed Marylebone shop was amazing, noise bouncing around like a pinball machine. The big, high-ceilinged room with open kitchen is clean and largely unadorned. A place to eat!
We started with a bottle of 2019 Cabert Pinot Nero. It arrived above room temperature but cooled down happily as we dined. Juicy and bright, with red fruit and light tannins, a good, very drinkable wine for £34.
I've always been an advocate of culinary simplicity. Masha is a master. Her upbringing on an agritourism farm between Tuscany and Umbria serves her well. Fried artichokes with aioli and pangrattato (£9) are divine. The crumb perfectly golden and crisp, the chokes just cooked through and the mayo topped with a wonderful, minted herb oil.
Sea Bream Crudo (£10) with olive oil, lemon and basil was elevated beautifully with toasted pine nuts. We had to order some focaccia (£5), the lightest I've ever eaten, to sop up all the juices.
Pasta is an absolute must have. Pea and Ricotta Ravioli (£7) with peas, butter, pea shoots and Pecorino Romano was light and fresh, the simple flavors merging together like a breath of spring. 30-egg yolk tagliolini (£12) with scads of butter, Parmigiano Reggiano and black truffle is my idea of heaven. This combo just can't be beat and neither can the prices! The best value for money I've seen in a long time.
Vitello alla Milanese (£29 for 2) lacked a bit of seasoning in the crumb but was otherwise a great example of the classic veal dish. The generous portion was crisp and juicy with nothing but Amalfi lemon and Parmesan. There are no sides on the menu, so we did without our veg for the day. This left more room for dessert!
Zuppa Inglese (£5) is something I used to make in the 80s …when I was 5. [ahem, Ed] In a nod to summer, Masha's version of Italian trifle is packed with juicy berries. What a treat. Crispy choux buns with pistachio cream and chocolate (£5) are full on and flavor-packed. They put me over the edge after such a big meal… but I'd do it again!
Service is excellent. Not a foot put wrong by a competent and charming staff. A lovely young woman brought us our starters and just lit up with a vibrant smile as she did so. Masha's daughter!
