THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
Trafalgar Square, London WC2N 5DN
www.locatelliatnationalgallery.co.uk
When I was invited to a viewing at the National Gallery followed by a boozy lunch (after which I would surely be completely useless) I thought, “how decadent”! Of course I accepted immediately.
The exhibition is the first of its kind in London, dedicated to the works of Francisco de Zurbarán, the “Spanish Caravaggio” of the 17th century. His works are primarily religious and notable for their brilliant use of light and shade. His fascination with fabric adds a sumptuous quality to his paintings.
Our tour was led by the two curators and their enthusiasm was infectious. Even I was able to appreciate the beauty of religious art, the message of which was hardly ‘go forth and imbibe boozy lunch’! It is however, my job, so I’ll have to take my chances with the afterlife!
The restaurant, located on the mezzanine of the Sainsbury Wing, is eponymously named for the owners, Georgio and Plaxy Locatelli. He’s a Michelin starred chef; she brings vision and creativity. They both have a love of Italian food, focused on fine ingredients, which they share with Executive Chef Imma Savinelli.
Throughout May, a Zurbarán inspired menu is on offer. 2 courses for £25, 3 for £31. It’s a good deal considering the plush surroundings and the excellent service. Our waitress was perfect!
I started appropriately with a Zurbarán Spritz (£12.50). Gin Mare (a Spanish 'Mediterranean' styled gin) with Martini, cherry Liqueur, lemon juice, prosecco and tonic, was an adult concoction that lifted my spirits and extinguished all thoughts of immortal sin! Nocellara olives and tarallini were welcome bar snacks.
Lunch consisted of a main course and dessert. The connection to Zurbarán wasn’t readily apparent but the result was inspired. Orecchiette with asparagus, lemon and herb infused oil was light and full of flavor, the pasta perfectly al dente. A grating of Parmesan cheese would have been welcome.
A glass of ’23 Vialetto Negroamaro from Puglia (£9) was a decent drink characterized by dark berries and a hint of liquorice.
My guest enjoyed a substantial meal of lemon chicken with buttery, smooth mashed potato, grilled courgettes and a delicious chicken jus. The breast of chicken was beautifully prepared, tender and moist.
I’m intolerant of tree nuts so a Cassata Siciliana was sadly off limits. The blend of sweet ricotta mousse, chocolate chips, pistachio and candied fruits still provided food for the eye. A substitute of raspberry sorbet lacked vibrancy, but offered something smooth, cold and sweet.
I made my way home feeling satiated, enlightened, uplifted and (as predicted) useless for the rest of the day.
