THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
162B Sloane Street, London SW1X 9BS
It's been yonks since I had a stroll down Sloane Street. I was heartened to see that London's lap of luxury is finally getting a facelift. Greenified and more pedestrian friendly to the tune of 46 mill, it may finally achieve the standards we so enjoy in South Tottenham!
Taz Fustok and Jonathan Krauss, the duo behind Notting Hill restaurant and members' club Laylow, are on it. Shopping is a hungry business and they are ready to take advantage of the increased footfall with Lórian, their new deli. On a rare sunny day, the windows on both sides of the corner shop were thrown open, filling the room with summer. It was as close to al fresco dining as it gets, without actually eating outside. Hopefully, the light, air and greenery will still feel like a garden oasis come winter.
The counter bids a tantalizing welcome upon entering. Bread, sweet treats and overstuffed sandwiches put my lunch glands into overdrive. The menu by Head Chef Emily Dobbs is veg forward with an emphasis on quality ingredients. Her menu mixes the trends of the day with innovation, keeping the focus on light, healthy food. At present, Lórian is open for breakfast and lunch with dinner a future possibility.
With all this healthy food in sight, I started with a cherry cola. It's fruit! I couldn't resist this treat I enjoyed as a child, too many years ago to bear thinking about. Thankfully, this was nothing like my childhood memory. It was 100 times better. Light cherry fizz with a plump black cherry garnish.
Pan con tomate with anchovies (£11) was classic Catalan deli. Crusty, toasted bread, tomatoes reduced to sweet/tart perfection and salty fish is a perfect way to start a meal. Sea bass crudo with tomatillo and blackberries (£18) sounded interesting on paper, but didn't quite deliver. The fish was beautifully prepared but neither the salsa nor the fruit packed the punch the presentation promised.
Both our salads were luscious. Crab, melon, cucumber, green chilli and fennel (£21) balanced lots of intricate flavors with the delicate shellfish. Chicken, avocado, jalapeño and fennel (£20) was a party. I kept finding unexpected treasures hidden in the mix, so each bite was different and surprising. Grated orange rind on top added a burst of vibrant color as well as a hit of bitter citrus. With a side of whole wheat bread and salty butter, this lunch had me ready for another round of heavy duty window shopping!
Excellent coffee and a miso cookie (£4) made a great finish. The chocolate chip cookie was exactly as I would have it, even though a healthy hit of sea salt all but wiped out the miso. Never mind. Salt and chocolate gets me every time.
Service was exceptional throughout the meal. Our waiter had both the charm and efficiency one would expect in this neck o' the woods. So good in fact, I'm sure he could get a job in South Tottenham.
