THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
How I ended up in London is still a mystery to me. In 1983, leaving The Big Apple was completely out of the question. Two countries and four decades later, life continues to surprise me. The team behind Meat the Fish must feel much the same way. Begun as a premium delivery service in Beirut in 2011, they now have three restaurants in Lebanon and a fourth just minutes from Sloane Square. Happily, our paths have crossed!
A townhouse smack in the center of Chelsea is about as premium as it gets, and this one is ultra-mod. I use the term mod because of the '60s vibe it invokes. In the middle is a free-form bar, the top rimmed in neon. Bright orange banquettes, low black and white swivel chairs and a fabulous playlist give a distinct lounge feel. Once I had plopped my carcass down I had no desire to get up again, and a delicious gin and passion fruit offered me no encouragement to do so. Neither did my beautiful Brazilian date, and I was more than content to just sit and soak up the atmosphere, dominated by a huge, colorful, fabric mural.
The staff are warm, friendly and full of helpful suggestions… which I needed. Head Chef Rachel Bado's “Mediter-Asian” menu is spectacular and deciding what to have left a dozen dishes on the not-have list. Sometimes this job is agony!
The menu is ingredients-led and there is no question about the quality here. The team have procured the best. More than that, Bado has fused a multitude of cuisines together with great finesse and I am a huge fan of fusion. Here there is Mediterranean simplicity mixed with the bold flavors of Asia and Mexico.
Hamachi tartare (£17.50) dressed with yuzu, soy and lemon zest with sourdough toast was a lovely marriage of east and west. 2 black bao buns (£18) with coconut king prawns, kewpie mayo and a salty Thai sweet and sour sauce packed a gorgeous piquant punch.
For mains, I took my cue from the name and opted for one meat and one fish. This choice was definitely at the pricier end of the menu and what it missed in fusion elements, it won on quality. Turbot (£42) and Australian Wagyu tenderloin (£40) were both exceptional. They came unadorned, in a bold statement. Top ingredients, cooked to perfection, need nothing else. A wedge of lemon for the fish and a small ramekin of horseradish sauce and Dijon with the tender, juicy, medium rare as ordered steak. A side of mushrooms and samphire (£9) with a good kick of ginger was a stunning side and 2 glasses of Coto de Imaz, Rioja Gran Reserva 2016 (£14) washed it all down admirably.
For dessert, a luscious, flourless chocolate cake (£10) had a brilliant hit of salt and a light, fresh pistachio gelato (£9) was only marred by a bit of crystallization.
Keep those lovely surprises coming!
