THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
49 South Audley Street, London W1K 2QD
https://nipotinaristorante.com/
Nipotina is the latest addition to haute-restaurateur Samyukta Nair's amazing portfolio. Well, for 5 minutes. I understand she's off in Dubai opening yet another chic eatery. Her flair for understated elegance never ceases to amaze me. This time she's attempted something more casual in the guise of a neighborhood Italian. Not in my hood, obviously, but I guess it's considered laid back for those who live in Mayfair.
Warm terracotta and olive green mixed with dark wood is both lovely and flattering. I imagined that even I looked good in it. Hard edges have been curved, softening the entire room. It was a pleasure to be in a room that wasn't entirely made of 90 degree angles.
Nipotina is Italian for granddaughter and the food is indeed inspired by Chef Somaia Hammad's early years with her nonna
. Her menu is elevated, classic Italian mixed with subtle innovation. By Mayfair standards, prices are moderate. The all Italian wine menu, curated by Luca Dusi of Passione Vino of Shoreditch, is pricier but impressive, with an excellent selection by the glass. A 2019 Maso Bergamini Riesling (£12) was particularly good as were both the Nebbiolos we tried – a 2018 Barbaresco (£20) was fruity and round with a peppery finish, the Barbera (£19) darker and fuller, with rich tannins and spice.
Bread is a must in any Italian restaurant and Hammad's selection is wonderful. We could have made a meal of crispbread, potato buns
and schiacciata, a Tuscan flatbread (£4.50).
Chicken livers (£11) disappointed. Overcooked, they were served with a balsamic reduction that lacked seasoning, making it overly sweet. The dish cried out for something savory. I enjoyed the potato gateau (that's Mayfair for mash with a crispy crust).
Zucchini Fritti (£6.50) were as good as I've ever had. The tempura-like batter was delightfully crisp, the veg was soft with bite and the aioli dip was light and full of citrus.
Pici Cacio e Pepe (£13) was absolutely delicious. The fat spaghetti was definitely “to the tooth”. In fact, another minute would have made perfection. The aged pecorino and black pepper cream was to die for!
Tiger prawns with 'nduja, tomatoes, parsley and chili (£19) was another excellent dish. The prawns were cooked perfectly and the sauce richly balanced, though without the heat I was expecting. Our gracious waiter brought us another basket of bread to sop up every last bit of the delicious sauce. Service throughout, was meticulous, well timed and charming.
For dessert, Torta di Nonna Lina (£8) put all the comfort of granny's kitchen on one plate. The warm, buttery crust, filled with sweet, creamy ricotta had me ready to curl up in front of a hot stove and purr.
Puff pastry filled with Bronte pistachio cream (£10) was luxurious by comparison, toasted bits of the Sicilian pistachios adding a lovely contrast to the sweet cream, though the pastry had gone tough.
My Nonna was Nanny. Comfort, warmth and memories of food!
