THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
After making a name for himself in Scotland and Australia, Chef Mark Greenaway has brought his remarkable talent to Covent Garden. Pivot – because the menu takes a turn with each season – is definitely one for your foodie bucket list.
Pivot is on the first floor of 3 Henrietta Street which also houses Lilly's Café, The Gentlemen Baristas and El Ta'Koy. The room exudes warmth. The dark terracotta walls, brilliant art collection and open plan kitchen give the feel of dining in someone's home; cosy and elegant.
Greenaway's food is technically superb, inventive, artistic, playful and very healthy. He chooses his ingredients with care and lets them speak for themselves. The result is full of nuance. Delicate rather than punchy. I found myself searching for flavors I couldn't quite put my finger on.
There is a 4 course menu at £65 or a tasting menu for £85, with vegan options available. Both offer a choice of wine and drink pairings. My blonde dinner date demanded the tasting menu with matched wine for another £65. How could I possibly refuse?
Pivot "snacks" arrived in a cardboard cylinder something akin to a fat pack of Pringles. The jewels inside are anything but! A rolled crisp of pastry, filled with horseradish cream and surrounded with a slice of prime beef made a delightful canapé out of classic flavors. A rice cracker with salmon tartare was brought to life by the addition of lovage. A combination I'll remember (steal)! With these, a glass of Prosecco Porte Nova 2020. Not a substitute for champagne, but light and festive.
Treacle and stout sourdough was a brilliant slice of bread. Butter whipped with duck fat was an epiphany! I asked for a pound of it to take away!
Roasted scallop with white asparagus, pea puree and spiced broth was simple, clean and elegant. The flavors of lemon grass, ginger and Thai basil were so delicately balanced in the chicken broth, it was impossible to discern one taste from another. The light citrus of a 2019 Vermentino made a good pairing.
Roscoff onion with lamb haggis, turnip tuille and potato mousse was the highlight of the meal. The onion was cooked perfectly and with a lamb reduction, the combination sang with flavor. A Gigondas Cuvee 2018 was also the wine of the evening. Full, spicy Grenache.
Seabass with gorgeous spring vegetables in a light mussel broth was another lesson in nuance and Norfolk quail with leg terrine and heritage carrot brought out Greenaway's inventive side. The leg meat was layered through a slice of fennel and the dish was a picture, made perfect with a chicken and whiskey jus.
Ice cream lollypop was the best "magnum" ever and brulee egg custard with caramelised white chocolate, lemon and almond ice cream showed off the chef's talent in the patisserie department. A glass of Vin Santo, like sweet liquid gold made pudding number 3.
From Covent Garden tube station, pivot to the right!
