THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
As London's food culture blossomed in the '90s, classic pubs started offering more than just pub grub. The gastropub was born. The latest venture by pubbeteers Oliver Marlowe and Hubert Beatson-Hird have gone a step further. Gastropub Ultra?
The Apollo Arms fits in perfectly with its country-feel hood in Clapham's Old Town. The massive space has wonderful areas for lounging, dining, private parties and best of all, a magnificent garden. The minimalist look feels "lived in", keeping it warm and inviting. The dining room, overlooking the street, has splendid, curved leather banquettes. Snugettes!
Beatson-Hird heads up operations and service is excellent. So is the food! Masterminded by Marlowe in collaboration with Head Chef David Halewood, the ever-changing menu has a wonderful mix of innovative fare and pub classics. There is also an impressive list of bar snacks.
I asked our delightful waitress if a bloody martini was a cocktail or an English way of asking for a gin and vermouth. Indeed, it's a new invention and I had to have it. Vodka, clamato juice, all the classic ingredients of a Bloody Mary and a hint of agave in a spiced salt-rimmed martini glass (£13.50). It was bloody good! Sunday brunch will never be the same.
Originally, gazpacho was nothing like the versions we know today. Bread, water, garlic, vinegar and olive oil! Happily, it has evolved since then and this tomato-based version with salsa verde (£9.50) was delicious. The veg was blitzed into a rustic soup and served with beautiful though super-salt crusted brioche.
Tuna sashimi with whipped avocado, pickled ginger and truffled ponzu dressing (£15) had nothing pub-like about it, gastro or otherwise. Beautifully plated, well-constructed, balanced and bloody tasty! With linen and formality, we'd be in fine-dining territory.
Featherblade (£24.50), a cut of beef from the shoulder, isn't often on the menu. Braised, as it is here, it is tender, succulent and full of flavor. The sauce was reduced to glossy perfection. Kale, triple cooked chips with parmesan and truffle, and truffle mayo were given equal attention and (for a pleasant change) included in the price! This was also the case with a fabulous pork belly (£25). Confit fennel, potato and pancetta croquette and chorizo jam were wonderful and well thought out. Crispy crackling and another cracking sauce added the final flourish.
A half bottle of organic Montepulciano (£19) didn't thrill my distinguished guest. Indeed, a couple of slugs proved a bit thin. My glass of 2016 Rioja Reserva (£12.50) was just the opposite. Full, spicy, round and lovely smooth tannins.
I should however have followed my guest's lead for pudding. An affogato corretto (£8.50), ice cream with espresso and a shot of Amaretto was perfectly manageable after such a big meal. I wasn't able to finish two quenelles of rich, dark chocolate cremeux with caramel ice cream, pearl barley (not quite) brittle, olive oil and a divine pinch of salt… but I made a bloody good try!
