THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
27 Bruton Place, London, W1J 6NQ
One of this year's most hotly anticipated openings, The Cocochine is a combination of great food, service that defines hospitality and exquisite design in one of London's most sought after locations. It is also the story of an immigrant that followed his dream.
Chef Larry Jayasekara was born in poverty in Sri Lanka. To cut a long and interesting story sadly short, Larry met his wife, moved to the UK and began a career which eventually led him to the upper echelons of the restaurant industry: Wareing, Roux, Blanc, Ramsay...the list goes on. His incredible, arduous journey then earned him the title of Head Chef at Pétrus! It was here he met Tim Jeffries, the multi-millionaire owner of Hamiltons Gallery and this unlikely pair have teamed up to create The Cocochine.
Jeffries' design of the 4 storey mews house is nothing short of brilliant. The mix of mosaic, leather, textiles, stone and art creates an ambiance that is exciting and comfortable without a hint of pretense. From the ground floor dining room to the 7-seat chef's counter and top floor private room, the attention to detail is dizzying. Across the street, the old stables have been converted to a deli that epitomizes country chic.
The menu is ingredients-led, showcasing the best that money can buy. Strictly à la carte, the offering is three courses for £145. While portions are not overly generous, the extras that appear unbidden most certainly are. Four canapes graced the table: salmon tartare, chicken terrine, Parmesan and truffle gougères, and a tartlet of grated reindeer heart were elegant treats with a glass of Billecart Brut Reserve.
Otoro, the "Wagyu" of tuna, lightly seasoned with soy and topped with Golden Oscietra Caviar made a top notch tartare. Barbecued lobster brought Chef Larry's personality to the fore. Adding a red wine jus flavored with wild cardamom was an innovative choice that worked very well. I wanted to lick it off the plate!
Between courses, a brioche style bun lacquered in onion caramel arrived with butter and truffle butter. Absolute heaven, I need a weekly delivery!
Wild halibut, seared in butter was paired with white asparagus, caviar and a lemongrass sauce in a simple, well balanced dish. Slivers of rhubarb added a fresh acidic crunch.
A single lamb chop from Rowler Farm was a beautiful piece of meat, cooked perfectly pink but with a little too much unrendered fat. It melted in my mouth anyway and I ate every bit of it. A ring of charred onion filled with peas and a delicious lamb jus added sweet and savory.
The wine list reads like a who's who of classic, old world wine. I asked our lovely sommelier if he would select one glass of red and one white. He brought rather more than that! Highlights were a 2020 Grüner Veltliner and a 2009 Pavillon De Léoville Foyferré Rouge. This luscious, full-bodied St. Julien claret was perfect with the lamb.
For dessert, 66% chocolate ganache topped with caviar. Surprisingly good, the hit of salt brought out the best in the chocolate. I'm not convinced the chocolate did the same for the caviar. Three or four more might sway me!
Quince and vinegar tart with a quenelle of creamy Tosi Gorgonzola was a triumph. Absolutely gorgeous with a glass of 2021 Maculan Torcolato.
The vibrant city of London is only so because of multi-culturalism. Indeed, some of our highest members of government are a testament to what can be achieved when immigrants are allowed to flourish. What Chef Larry Jayasekara has accomplished should be applauded, and celebrated!
