THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
I've found my new favorite country pub. It's all down to the vision of head chef patron Dave Watts, who started his career being taught by Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir Quat Saisons. An auspicious start, which he's developed into his own personal style and beliefs. The Crown at Upton is a traditional country pub, but on the walls there are paintings by local artists – a highland cow, a fighting cock, modernist flowers. That sums up Dave's approach – the best of the past, the local, and the modern.
Front of house, Chris spoiled us with his charm, detailed knowledge and selection of wines to accompany our food. A glass of Prosecco is always a nice way to be greeted, and Della Vite Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (£8.50) was creamy and fruity with some depth. There's a selection of quality English bubbles as well as Runiart if you want to go French. It came with roast chicken popcorn, which one of us loved but the other didn't 'get', and an epic sourdough bread baked daily in the pub with kefir butter.
Charcuterie (£9.50) was Italian in style but local in derivation and execution - Dave has an interest in a local farm (as if he wasn't busy enough) and the red wine, thyme and fennel sausage was just one highlight. Twice baked souffle with local Tunworth cheese (£9.50), was light and tangy and came with home-made pineapple chutney - always tricky, this souffle was a prefect cloud of cheesiness. A Fincas Azabache Blanco Rioja (£25/bottle) was rich and fruity but not exciting.
Lamb Loin (£32) was melt in mouth and a beautiful flavor, not 'muttony' at all, and a perfectly cooked 'rare'. The meat juices, aubergine and soy purée and braised fregola (Sardinian pasta of semolina dough made into tiny balls and oven toasted) complimented the meat well. The only disappointment was the pan fried cep, which had little flavor and was not crisp, but maybe that's because I love my mushrooms fried with butter. An Aussie Pinot Noir, Whale Point (£5.75) was an ideal raspberry and cherry companion.
Fillet of beef (£31.50) came with braised shallot, confit tomato, chips and a light Bearnaise. Again, sounds traditional and ordinary. Again, wasn't. I didn't need the knife, and the taste of everything was turned up to 11, as was a complex and deep Argentinian Finca Sophenia 'Altosur' Malbec (£8.25). Desserts were inventive and clever too.
This is food made by someone not just exquisitely skilled in the kitchen but one who cares intensely about food. The Crown's on the edge of Salisbury Plain, north of Andover and not too far west of London. For an area that many drive past on the way to Bath or Devon, there's a lot to do, so make a short break of it and explore. Be sure to include The Crown in your itinerary.
Fine food in the middle of nowhere? Get out of town!
