THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
It was such a pleasure walking down this well-beaten path on a dark winter’s night. Portobello Road, antiques shops closed, was quiet and charming. Towards the Ladbroke Grove end, Ukai announces itself in spectacular fashion. The building demands a photo op. The visual delight continues inside with a blend of shabby chic, classic Japanese and a good splash of pop culture. Cherry blossoms and lanterns add splashes of color to the romantic ambiance. The bar was buzzing on a Monday night. It must be standing room only when they have live music on the weekend!
Ukai is the love child of Patron Chef Alessandro Verros. Italian born, he cut his chops at Roka and Nobu before going solo. His food is a contemporary mix, with both Mediterranean and Peruvian influences in the largely classic Japanese menu. It’s fabulous! We were treated to an astonishing assortment of dishes.
When it comes to sake, some like it hot and I’m one of them. It’s sadly gone out of fashion so I was delighted to see it on the menu. A carafe, served in a hot water bath was a comforting bargain at £14. Make it 2!
I’m a fan of edamame. Serving it with sea salt and truffle (£7.50) turned the ordinary into something quite moreish. Ceviche clasico de lubina £14) brought the Peruvian influence to the table. Seabass, tuna, ginger, garlic and citrus dressing was punchy and full of zip. Served with rice crackers added crunch.
Potato rösti with salmon tartare and caviar was elegant. A perfect canape with a crispy bottom, silky fish and the salty brine of flying fish roe.
Sashimi mix (£25) was excellent quality. The salmon melted like butter, the tuna was lean and sweet and the Hamachi had the slight bite that I so love. This was followed by a crispy tuna roll (£13) a delicious tempura maki, and a fire roll (£18). Salmon, tuna tartare, Hamachi, jalapeño and a spicy ketchup all come together in a big, beautiful roll, full of flavor and heat.
Miso-marinated aubergine (£9) is Verros’ take on the Japanese classic, nasu dengaku. Baked to creamy umami perfection. This was followed by the juiciest black cod (£42) I’ve ever had. Roasted with miso and lime, it just flaked apart, still had bite and flooded my plate with juice. Brilliant.
Short rib (£19), slow cooked in red wine sauce was a hit but also the only miss of the evening. Cut off the bone, it was beautifully served… on the bone! Very clever. The thin end of the rib was sensational. Thin, tender slices of lean meat with a gorgeous dipping sauce. Unfortunately, as we got to the thicker end, it became tough and gristly. As they say in Japanese art, one flaw points out the perfection!
After all that, we couldn’t even think about dessert. We hopped on a Lime and in the equivalent of a waddle on a bike, ended 2025 in style!
