THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
***Spoiler Alert***
Brown butter ice cream!!!
Sorry to ruin the happy ending for you, but I can hardly think of anything else!
After their tremendous success with The Oystermen, Rob Hampton and Matt Lovell have teamed up with Head Chef Khalid Hassan to create a neighborhood bar and restaurant based on British inspired classics. Hearty fare with full on flavor and a fantastic bar.
The room is clean and simple with exposed brick and a centerpiece bar. There's a lounge area in the back which will soon lead to more seating in the garden. Also in the works is a private room in the cellar which looks promising indeed.
The atmosphere is very relaxed and the enthusiasm, shared by every member of staff, is positively infectious. GM Loris made everything sound so delicious, I wanted to order the entire menu. Such conviviality always starts at the top and we also had the pleasure of meeting Rob Hampton. He was so genuine and friendly, I nearly asked him to join us!
We were treated to 2 snacks. Truffle and mushroom arancini (£5) were delightful. Crisp and creamy, with nothing to detract from the earthy taste of truffle. Smoked cod's roe mousse with blue corn tortillas was just about the best taramasalata ever. Beyond creamy and the chips were inspired.
Tempura and roasted cauliflower with curry sauce and lime labneh (£12.50) was a brilliant mix of flavors, though the batter wasn't crisp enough. Sea Bream ceviche with umami dressing, pickled cucumber, bronze fennel and buckwheat (£12.50) was an absolute dream. The Japanese inspired dressing was packed with flavor and the buckwheat added a welcome bit of crunch.
Squash orzo risotto, slow-cooked duck egg, pine nuts, fried capers and crispy sage (£22) was a knockout. The rice-shaped pasta worked so well, I shall never make risotto with rice again! Each ingredient punctuated the dish and the confit duck egg added luxury. Had it not been too salty, it would have garnered a 10!
8 hour braised ox cheek (£28) was rich, tasty and tender. Hickory smoked mash was mind blowing. As soon as barbecue season kicks in, I shall attempt to re-create it. Tenderstem broccoli with chilli, garlic and lemon panko (£5) was a super side, the bread crumbs a nice touch.
A Gianni Tessari "Tai Rosso" Grenache, 2019 (£45) was a superb bottle of wine. Juicy, fruity and spicy, just as the menu said, I would be happy to have this wine in my cellar!
Portions are very generous. We were pressed to finish our mains after 2 snacks and 2 starters and still leave room for dessert. I am a professional however and the show must go on! Caramel parfait, coffee reduction, chocolate crumb and popcorn (£6.50) was very playful. Sweet and creamy with a salty kick.
And then came the brown butter ice cream (£3)! With caramelized white chocolate nibs, I couldn't ask for a happier ending.
I can't wait for the sequel!
