THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
My first impression of this rabbit hole in Soho was that it is so pop! On further reflection, I realized it is, in fact, classic. This got my brain running in circles.
So much of our culture is pop at its origin. What endures, becomes classic. Warhol's Campbell Soup Cans and the hamburger are two great examples. Brothers Alex and Oliver Santoro have brought their own version of the burger and pop art together in London's food and drink hotspot.
The classic American diner look brought me right back to my youth. Back then, we could order a cup of coffee and get free refills for hours! I recall a few episodes of uncontrollable caffeine shakes! Gone are those days, but the diner look remains timeless. The ground floor is done up in frosty lavender which below ground turns to bubble-gum pink. Banquettes, diner chairs, stainless steel and Formica-like table tops complete the look with film inspired pop-art adorning the walls. Neon lighting gives a bit of an other-worldly feel. I missed the playlist that would complete the vibe.
The two affable bros were both on site when I visited. I enjoyed hearing about their commitment to what they are doing; bringing organic ingredients and vegan alternatives to the fast food concept. It's both fun and admirable though they have a lot of competition to contend with.
Happily, cocktails are also on the menu. It was my job to imbibe! A blackberry mojito and jalapeño margarita (£12) were both decent drinks though the flavors were not as punchy as I prefer.
The menu is a mix of fast food classics: burgers, wings, nachos, shawarmas, fries, shakes… featuring organic, grass fed meat and vegan alternatives to the lot. There is something for everyone except those with nut intolerances or allergies. All allergens are listed, albeit in VERY small print and there are in fact only a few dishes without nuts. I am intolerant and my Italian guest was allergic but we did manage to have a meal. The brothers have promised to address this issue once they are in full swing.
A Royale with Cheese Burger (£11.50) and its vegan counterpart, the Wonder Burger (£12.50) were both delicious. For me the beef is the better option but the seitan-based alternative was tasty, smoky and had a good mouth feel. Both came with cheese, tomato, lettuce, gherkins, onion jam, Wonder sauce and a steamed brioche bun. They were juicy and messy as they should be and came wrapped in foil and sustainable packaging - the foil seemed unnecessary.
A side of sweet potato fries (£4.95) with Wonder sauce and jalapeño mayo at an additional £2 apiece were crispy and yummy.
For dessert, the only nut-free option was a Simpson's organic doughnut (£5) with icing and sprinkles. It was excellent. Light, fluffy, melt-in-the-mouth and it came with a fabulous salted caramel.
I'm reminded of Peter Allen's song 'Everything Old Is New Again'. If only I could be included!
