THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
The entrance alone increased my pulse rate. Created by artist, Marco Tullio Siviglia, the sensational, long dark passageway gives the feeling of entering something exciting and it delivers! It leads to a room full of wonder. A club, a jungle, dark yet full of colour and light with a multi-plumed ostrich in the centre. The ceiling is a work of art. Wall sconces dripping black wax add a touch of Goth. Pulsing music adds to the vibe. It's absolutely fantastic; a perfect backdrop for the equally exciting food of Head Chef George Scott-Toft.
The staff were all brilliant from the get-go. Polished, friendly, competent. As effervescent as a glass of Veuve Clicquot (£22), they paced the meal perfectly.
The menu stems from Chef Scott-Toft's travels in Argentina, Chile and Peru which he marries expertly with European ingredients. Our server recommended 4 small plates and 2 mains to share. They're called small plates for a reason but could equally be named for their quality. Roasted delica pumpkin, salsa macha and goat's cheese tostadas (£14 for 2) were well balanced with zip and perfectly caramelized pumpkin.
Iberico Pork Presa anticuchos (£17) with aji amarillo and mustard are heaven. The 2 “kebabs” were grilled perfectly. The yellow chilli pepper dip was moreish.
A single scallop with a salsa of tomatillo, shallot, jalapeño, coriander, mango and bronze fennel (£19) was caramelized, just cooked through and not overwhelmed by the complex flavours of the salsa. Great cookery.
Yellowtail, plantain and aji tiradito (£17) was a highlight. The sashimi was beautifully complemented by the spicy red pepper sauce, swirled artistically with a green herb and yoghurt dressing and slices of kumquat. Sensational.
We opted for 1 main and 2 sides. A 350g josper grilled sirloin (£47) was an excellent piece of meat. Closer to medium than the medium/rare I had asked for, though still pink in the middle, it was juicy and tender without a shred of gristle or fat. The chimichurri had a smokiness that really elevated the condiment. Purple sprouting broccoli with black mole was perfectly al dente and tasty but grilled aubergine with sesame and soy (£11) was the star of the evening. Made with over 20 ingredients, it was honestly the best eggplant I've ever eaten. A melt-in-your-mouth umami bomb.
A bottle of 2019 Barda Chacra Pinot Noir from Argentina (£82) was dry and full of spice with a character all its own. During the meal, the fruit opened up giving balance to the silky tannins. Lovely!
Desserts are worth saving room for. Chestnut and clementine goat cheese cake (£11) was so creamy and sweet, I would never have guessed it was goat. Island chocolate Royal with coffee and mescal ice cream was a delicious dark chocolate tart with a crisp crust but wanted a stronger hit of mescal to balance the sweet treat.
As soon as I left this lovely jungle I thought, I'm a celebrity... Get me back in!!!
