Galvin at Windows

I hopped on my bike in South Tottenham at 6:10pm. By 7:20, I was sipping a James Bond martini on the 28th floor of The Hilton Park Lane. It was one of those “…I don’t think we’re in Kansas anymore” moments. With London at my feet and the best Martini since 1987 at Harry’s Bar in Venice, I was definitely stirred. Even more when one of my favourite people joined me. Our first date since March. My elbows went mad!

The Galvin brothers are among the finest restaurateurs in London. Galvin at Windows opened in 2006 and earned them their first Michelin star in 2010. Marc Hardiman just took over as head chef. How daunting is that? Something akin to replacing a star on Broadway. Seems he’s heading for stardom himself.

A flair for classic cooking – turbot with mussels, kohlrabi and seaweed

Atop five star luxury, the dining room is both fine and formal but the staff make it feel so warm and comfy I felt like taking my shoes off! And talk about a room with a view! Spectacular.

Four little “cigars” appeared. Delicate tubes of crunch, filled with goat curd/chicken parfait. In Danish: an appetite waker. Boy was I awake! More than ready for the warm, crusty bread that followed. With Normandy butter! God help me, they had to bring more …twice!

Head sommelier Rudina Arapi was pure delight. She paired our wines for us but I never saw the prices. Just bring your platinum card and you’ll be fine.

Portland crab with heirloom tomatoes and fresh almonds (£26) was top quality, tasty and beautifully presented if a bit safe. A 2015 white Rioja “Capellania” Marques de Murrieta developed on the palate from start to finish. Fresh citrus, stone fruit, mineral and pepper. Excellent.

Cured Faroe Islands salmon (£22) also had great development of flavour. Orange, Oscietra caviar, endive and sea buckthorn made every surprising bite of this dish different from the last. A 2015 Riesling Grand Cru “Rosacker” Dom Mittnach had mellow citrus, nuts and honey. A fine pairing.

Turbot with mussels, kohlrabi and seaweed (£45) showed flair for classic cookery. The fish was firm and meaty and a mussel “bisque” made the dish sing. A glass of 2016 Latour-Giraud Meursault Genevrieres 1er Cru could hardly have been better.

With Anjou pigeon (£44), Hardiman hit new heights. Perfectly prepared, pink, succulent, tender and full of flavour. Celeriac, damson and olive gave contrast and harmony. Superb. A 2018 Ogereau Anjou Rouge “l'Anjouée” was pure, juicy fruit. A joy.

An excellent choux pastry (£14) came filled with a light matcha cream. A bit too cautious, it offered little contrast to wonderful wild strawberries. Maury, a Grenache sticky, was big for this pudding. I enjoyed every drop!

Calvados ice cream was a perfect foil for a beautiful, buttery Tart Tatin (£16). The added caramel sauce was right on the edge, something I can NEVER do! Fabulous with a 2016 Dom L’Ancienne Cure L’Abbaye Monbazillac. Luscious, golden and woody.

On the bike ride back to Tottenham I once again appreciated how mountainous London is. Himalayan on this occasion! So I clicked my heels three times and kept repeating,

There’s no place like Park Lane…there’s no place like Park Lane…

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