Whoops! If this website isn't showing properly, it could be that you're using an old browser. For the full American Magazine experience, click here for details on updating your internet browser.

THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE

The American masthead
1040 Abroad

Pied à Terre

34 Charlotte Street, London, W1T 2NH
By Michael M Sandwick
Published on October 22, 2020
www.pied-a-terre.co.uk

Pied à Terre Canapés à la Pied à Terre - Cream filled egg, Wagyu hot dog, Radish in tapenade soil

Pied-a-terre (noun) /piˌeɪ.dætˈeər/ foot on ground

The perfect name for David Moore’s restaurant. After 28 years of Michelin stars, he still manages to keep both his pieds on terre firma. Last night he was serving, clearing and pouring; all the while spreading his welcoming charm to everyone. He is an inspiration.

The ambience is just right, balancing high end quality, casual comfort and a spectacular art collection featuring the glass of Yorgos Papadopoulos. It’s personal, and there is colour everywhere instead of the blank canvas of white linen. This connection to art continues in the kitchen. Head Chef Asimakis Chaniotis began as a street artist before finding his way to the saucepans where his artistry found its niche.

There are 2 tasting menus. £80 for 8 courses and £95 for 10, with à la carte and vegan options. My boyish figure dictated restraint so a mere 8 courses it was.

We enjoyed a flight of wines at £75. Good rather than exceptional and at times too young but well paired throughout. The highlight: a Moscatel sticky from Málaga.

Pied à Terre Kumquat Soufflé

Asimakis is of Greek descent and the Kalamata olive oil from his home is exceptional. I sopped up as much as I could with both my slices of equally excellent bread. Thankfully, my guest saved a slice for future sopping.

First, canapés. Radishes in tapenade soil, cream filled eggs and wagyu hot dogs. I haven’t had a hot dog since the ‘80s. At first I thought, what a waste of wagyu. Then I ate it. Best damn dog ever! Gave me a sudden hankering for beer!

Foie gras with beetroot, black truffle, chestnut and apple was a lesson in balance. Presented like 3 petit fours it was both eye and mouth candy. British whelk bouillabaisse is drunk directly out of a big, beautiful conch, providing the same primal pleasure you get from sucking an oyster out of its shell. Fine dining meets primal pleasure. Love it!

Lemon sole was a dream. Coated in green parsley dust and served with an artichoke puree and your 5-a-day like you’ve never seen…or eaten them. Exquisite. And the sauce! Reduced to a glossy intensity that just screamed with flavour.

Iberico pork is one of the few that can be served medium rare or rare to great advantage. This one was medium which lost some of its succulence. The pork confit however was a veritable bomb of flavour and a dollop of fresh cheese with black truffle a super accompaniment. And the sauce!!! Here that last slice of bread came in very handy!

A creamy, salty blue cheese with fabulously crispy lavash and a lovely little lemon cream streusel brought us to the crowning glory, a kumquat soufflé. I couldn’t keep my feet on the ground for this one. Over the moon.

My guest treated me to an Uber. This enabled me to stay in my Michelin bubble all the way home to Tottenham. Foot on ground!

>> MORE FOOD & DRINK

Share:    
Pied à Terre

The American

Get Your Magazine

Support The American - the magazine that supports overseas Americans - by subscribing or buying a copy

Subscribe Now

The Newsletter

The free essential weekly read for overseas Americans. Join us!

Join Now





OUR SUPPORTERS
Subscribe

Tanager Wealth Management

My Expat Taxes

© All contents of www.theamerican.co.uk and The American copyright Blue Edge Publishing Ltd. 1976–2021
The views & opinions of all contributors are not necessarily those of the publishers. While every effort is made to ensure that all content is accurate
at time of publication, the publishers, editors and contributors cannot accept liability for errors or omissions or any loss arising from reliance on it.
Privacy Policy       Archive