THE TRANSATLANTIC MAGAZINE
Pied-a-terre (noun) /piˌeɪ.dætˈeər/ foot on ground
The perfect name for David Moore’s restaurant. After 28 years of Michelin stars, he still manages to keep both his pieds on terre firma. Last night he was serving, clearing and pouring; all the while spreading his welcoming charm to everyone. He is an inspiration.
The ambience is just right, balancing high end quality, casual comfort and a spectacular art collection featuring the glass of Yorgos Papadopoulos. It’s personal, and there is colour everywhere instead of the blank canvas of white linen. This connection to art continues in the kitchen. Head Chef Asimakis Chaniotis began as a street artist before finding his way to the saucepans where his artistry found its niche.
There are 2 tasting menus. £80 for 8 courses and £95 for 10, with à la carte and vegan options. My boyish figure dictated restraint so a mere 8 courses it was.
We enjoyed a flight of wines at £75. Good rather than exceptional and at times too young but well paired throughout. The highlight: a Moscatel sticky from Málaga.
Asimakis is of Greek descent and the Kalamata olive oil from his home is exceptional. I sopped up as much as I could with both my slices of equally excellent bread. Thankfully, my guest saved a slice for future sopping.
First, canapés. Radishes in tapenade soil, cream filled eggs and wagyu hot dogs. I haven’t had a hot dog since the ‘80s. At first I thought, what a waste of wagyu. Then I ate it. Best damn dog ever! Gave me a sudden hankering for beer!
Foie gras with beetroot, black truffle, chestnut and apple was a lesson in balance. Presented like 3 petit fours it was both eye and mouth candy. British whelk bouillabaisse is drunk directly out of a big, beautiful conch, providing the same primal pleasure you get from sucking an oyster out of its shell. Fine dining meets primal pleasure. Love it!
Lemon sole was a dream. Coated in green parsley dust and served with an artichoke puree and your 5-a-day like you’ve never seen…or eaten them. Exquisite. And the sauce! Reduced to a glossy intensity that just screamed with flavour.
Iberico pork is one of the few that can be served medium rare or rare to great advantage. This one was medium which lost some of its succulence. The pork confit however was a veritable bomb of flavour and a dollop of fresh cheese with black truffle a super accompaniment. And the sauce!!! Here that last slice of bread came in very handy!
A creamy, salty blue cheese with fabulously crispy lavash and a lovely little lemon cream streusel brought us to the crowning glory, a kumquat soufflé. I couldn’t keep my feet on the ground for this one. Over the moon.
My guest treated me to an Uber. This enabled me to stay in my Michelin bubble all the way home to Tottenham. Foot on ground!