Taka restaurant review

Going crackers at Taka

Rice cracker.

What was your first thought? A vegan alternative to wheat? A salty snack to go with Asahi? Think again. It’s an awe inspiring work of art with snow crab, two kinds of caviar and flowers. It tastes even better than it looks. I wanted to kneel before it and pray but, being me, I devoured it like a savage. From there it was uphill all the way. Like the four stages to Nirvana.

Taka is entirely unassuming. Removing formality and ostentation from the concept of “fine dining” creates a fabulous element of surprise. When the extraordinary food arrives, it is entirely unexpected. Richard, the front-of-house man, carries this off with aplomb. He keeps everything bubbly and chilled with a hip mix of house music and still ensures service is flawless. Smooth.

The star is Chef Taiji Maruyama. Sorry Richard! His philosophy of food is a near perfect blend of Japanese tradition, modern techniques and high quality, locally sourced ingredients that land on the table just hours after harvest. You can taste the care that has gone into every morsel before they even hit the kitchen. What Maruyama then does with them is exceptional.

2020 AC (After Cracker). Loch Duart Salmon (£8). Served under glass and smoked at the table. Just a touch of oak. New age sashimi. A bit of crunch, tart, sweet, umami… magic.

Star Chef Taiji Maruyama

Summer garden salad (£14.50). This is how we should eat. The freshest veg ever, on a bed of edamame paste and topped with salt fog foam. The daikon is cured for 3 days and cut into hearts. The salad is so stunning one is hesitant to touch it, but we did as we were told. Mash and devour. There is no guilt with Nirvana in sight.

Three kinds of highest quality tuna set the stage for the star. The Chef himself arrived to grate fresh wasabi. It’s quite a ceremony and I felt privileged, but he probably won’t let anyone else touch the stuff. A 2 inch piece is worth about £150! I’m trying to figure out how I can grow some in my back yard! Homemade soy sauce with brushes to paint it on the sushi added the fifth star.

Monkfish roasted in seaweed with miso and grilled lime (£28) was a thing of beauty and the Wagyu (£50) a joy forever. The fat content probably took a year off my life. I honestly don’t care!

Cabbage with Kombu Sake butter and sliced fresh truffle set a new bar. Slaw and kraut are out! Lightly smoked hen of the wood mushrooms come in a broth made with fresh veggies and the sanitized dirt they’re grown in. Honestly. Dirt soup! Sublime. I just bought a shovel.

Beverages in general are more closely aligned to the Shepherd Market vibe. Served in style, but in substance not on a par with the sophistication of the kitchen. It’s more difficult with drinks. Ostentation has a price tag. Sparkling sake was sweeter than I prefer, losing the subtle characteristics of one of my favourite drinks. Plum and yuzu sake are also sweet treats rather than serious stickies. Flowering teas offer dazzling theatrics but are no substitute for the exceptional teas Japan has to offer.

There is a good selection of wine for under £50, however the list has no vintages so it’s difficult to make an educated choice. A Condrieu at £98 is top of the price range; a fine Viognier with flowers, peach and little acidity make it a lovely companion for raw fish.

Duck egg ice cream (£4) was rich and delicious but crystalized a bit, losing its creaminess. It came with amazing charcoal meringue wafers.

A gorgeous chocolate nemesis (£9) was the last step to Nirvana. Not much Japanese influence here except for the simple wafer that brought us back where we started.

Rice cracker my ass!

>> MORE FOOD & DRINK