Xier

Knocking elbows didn’t quite communicate the joy I felt at a post-lockdown reunion with my beautiful blonde. I must learn how to express myself seriously with my funny bone! Luckily, I have other means of articulating my elation for Chef Carlo Scotto’s food. And with all the social distancing, I didn’t rub elbows with anyone!

We began with cocktails at XR, the less formal downstairs restaurant where the smart casual atmosphere spills out onto the street. A smoky Negroni made with Vida Mezcal (£14) was a brilliant take on the classic and mixed to perfection by the charming bartender.

Upstairs, the ambiance is entirely different. Formal. Staid. White linen and minimalism. Any hint of high road is blocked out with the shock of teal curtains; the single departure from classic conformity. What a contrast to the wild imagination that Scotto brings to his kitchen!

There is a 10-course tasting menu at £90 or 6 courses for £70. My hot tip is to go for lunch. 3/4 courses for £35/45. That’s what I’ll be doing when it’s my turn to treat!

Chef Carlo Scotto makes miracles out of the most unlikely ingredients – Salmon and Foie Gras

The staff are all superb and again, very formal. I love being called Sir, but it makes me feel like my grandfather! The menu is explained at length but accents and masks make it difficult to catch some of the more exotic details. My sexagenarian hearing is probably the real culprit. Damn. I am my grandfather! I’ll have to get an ear trumpet.

Crispy pancake with BBQ corn and lemongrass velouté put me under Scotto’s spell with the first bite. He makes miracles out of the most unlikely ingredients. I wish he would do something with our world leaders!

Potato and rosemary bread with smoky butter sent me into rapture. Steaming hot, a perfect crust and butter to die for.

Next, salmon and foie gras! Yes. Together. How this works is a mystery, but it does. Add rose petal, tart apple and yuzu and you have a signature dish.

With these courses, a glass of Zibibbo "Jasmin", Firriato 2017. Peaches, sweet citrus and flowers. Delightful.

Black cod in caramel miso with purslane and a BBQ nectarine was another lovely combination; the salty miso offset beautifully by the sweet/tart explosion of fruit.

The most tender beef cheek came with collard greens, date purée, crispy bone marrow and a gorgeous beef jus. Classic, but still with the Scotto touch. The dates worked a treat.

A glass of Pinot Noir, Harwood Hall, NZ 2012 with dark berries, plum and lovely spice at the finish was a pleasure, though the beef could easily accommodate a bolder wine.

Swedish cheese came next. I didn’t catch the name but it was a hard cheese from cow’s milk with a creamy texture and a hint of parmesan. The 2 tiny slivers couldn’t quite accommodate all the fruit and ginger bread that came with it but the quality was top. And the grapes! Here Scotto adds physical sensation to the mix. Ice cold, they burst into effervescence. It’s a shame to be alerted to the fact. I would have thought they were plain old grapes. Surprise!

After 5 courses, blondie and I began to feel replete. Then came dessert. Or rather 3 of them + 2 quenelles of ice cream. A buffet from heaven had landed on our table. A glorious strawberry granita with marshmallow cream and a green (basil?) syrup, pistachio sponge with pastry cream and chopped nuts and a chocolate pudding that was literally the icing on the cake! An almond sablé with creamy caramel, glossy chocolate and dried chocolate shards. I was devastated when I could only manage 2 bites.

I am enthralled with Scotto’s culinary imagination. I’d love to see what would happen if he let loose on the interior!

XR (Xier's informal sister restaurant) now offers a new set lunch menu from Tuesday to Friday. Priced at £15 for two courses and £20 for three courses, it's also part of the government's Eat Out to Help Out plan, making the lunch just £7.50 for two courses/£10 for three after the 50% discount (up to £10 per person). Enjoy Chef Carlo Scotto's cooking on XR’s sunny outdoor terrace at a very reasonable price. www.xierlondon.com

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